Category Dogs

Whatever your reasons are for adding a dog to your family, it is an important decision that should be not made on a whim and deserves research to make sure you make the right choice of dog breed for you, your family and lifestyle.

For the most part, children and dogs form great bonds and friendships that benefit both beyond words. But just like your children, all dogs are individuals and there is no guarantee you will get what you want or expect, even when you have made the most informed of choices. The breed of the dog is perhaps the single most important factor you can take into account though, when deciding what dog is right for you. We all know that fashions come and go, but making a dog part of your family is for the long haul, and should you should try to not place too much weight on the exterior packaging of a dog. Of course, we all remember dogs we grew up with ourselves or are influenced by current dog breed trends, but just because you have fond memories of a particular breed or that dog in the magazine looks cute and cuddly, does not make it the right dog for your situation. No one is suggesting that you do not get what you want, but its pays to research the breed first, then make the decision based on the evidence.

Of course, before bringing a dog into your home, it is essential that some ground rules are set which any children in the house (an adults!) need to observe. Kids need to be taught that the dog is a living, breathing being, capable of feeling pain and distress. They need to know what type of behaviour is suitable and what is not acceptable or potentially dangerous. When they can play and when the dog needs peace and quiet. The best way to teach your children these rules is to lead by example and show them the way. They will take notice of your actions around the dog and also become more aware of the dogs body language and posture through this. Another point to note is that no matter how reliable you think your dog is, you should never, under any circumstances leave your children and dog unattended at any time. It only takes a split second for an accident to happen, so make sure it does not happen between your child and dog.

Dogs which are going to be part of a family, especially with young children, all need to have some basic characteristics in common. They must be robust, fun, friendly, patient and reliable – basically a well balanced temperament. There are many dog breeds that fit this description, so if you are stuck for inspiration on the breed for you and your family, read on……

• Labrador and Golden Retriever – Eager to please, intelligent, loyal and affectionate with a high tolerance for children, these two breeds have been firm family favourites for many years. Their pliable, trainable nature (usually via means of food rewards) means that they learn new commands and rules very easily. They gravitate towards people naturally and their calm, laid back and consistently reliable nature means they are good for families with children of all ages. While they can have a tendency towards being a couch potato, they do have enough stamina and appetite for life to play all day. It is no wonder then, than many service dogs are one of these two breeds and with that as a recommendation, a Lab or Golden could be the dog for you.
• Beagles – Life is always fun with a Beagle! Loveable, with a heart of gold and patient enough to deal with the most rambunctious of children, the Beagle is not always an obvious choice, but is consistently named in the top 5 breeds for families with children. Beagles tend to love a cuddle and actively like all people and rarely show any aggression. Being ‘pack’ animals they thrive on attention and welcome it in all forms.
• Crossbreeds – People often over look cross breed dogs, but they can turn out to be little gems. Cross breed dogs do not tend to have the genetic physical and behavioural problems found in many pedigree dogs as they have fewer limitations placed on them genetically when they breed, whereas breeding pedigree dogs limits the amount of dogs the breeder can choose from, and therefore any negative behavioural traits are more frequently passed from dog to dog. Recently, cross breed dogs such as the Labradoodle have become very popular due to their laid back Labrador temperament, combined with the low shed coat and intelligence of the Poodle. With dogs such as these, prospective purchasers can be made aware of the temperament of or meet the both parents as a good breeder will always be happy to let you do so.
• St Bernard – A seriously big dog, with an even bigger personality! The St Bernard may not be everyone’s cup of tea, but the lucky owner of this dog will find out the true meaning of loyalty. St Bernard’s were bred to help people, and this innate love of humans has transcended the ages, morphing it into a very well behaved, loveable and relaxed dog. Big enough to handle anything a child can throw at it, the patience of this breed is legendary, however due to their sheer size and weight, when in full play mode they can tend to be a little clumsy, but never with aggression attached. The Newfoundland also shows the same characteristics as the St Bernard, making it just as amiable and willing to please as its counterpart.
• Boxers – With the correct guidance, this joker of the dog world will ender itself everyone and everything it meets within seconds! Given their rather hyperactive nature, they are best suited to a family who are very active and want a dog who they can involve with everyday life. With a high levels of intelligence and energy and low levels of aggression , this happy go lucky breed could be the dog for you, so long as you are prepared to give it firm leadership.
• Bichon Frise – this merry little dog has a wonderful approach to life and a sunny disposition. With a gentle nature and a natural tendency to like people, if you are in the market for a smaller dog then this one is worth a look. With the added bonus of a low shedding and hypoallergenic coat, this intelligent and friendly dog can learn new tricks easily and will delight all it meets. With early socialisation to children, this further enhances the prospects of this dog as a perfect family pet.
• Hungarian Vizsla – often called the ‘velcro’ dog, this breed can form strong bonds with people and is particularly fond of and patient with children. It possesses a lively mix of energy, loyalty, protectiveness and obedience and will make a surprisingly good companion and playmate for children. It does need a lot of input in terms of walking and stimulation, but with the right family, this dog can flourish.

Of course, there are many, many other dog breeds that may be suitable for your family situation.

Remember, you need to take into account various factors when choosing a dog to be part of your family including the age of any children, other pets in the house, your lifestyle ( Are you active or not? At work or not?), your time budget, the commitment involved…. the list really does go on and on! There are so many breeds of dogs to choose from and you must remember that all dogs are as individual as you are! Whatever breed you are thinking of, why not look at our dog breeds pages for more information?

There are currently over 7 million dogs owned in the UK , overtaking cats as Britain’s most popular pet. The fun, love, bond and devotion experienced by dog owners from their beloved pet is unbelievable, almost to the point where you cannot put a price on it. But if you did how much do you think it would cost in hard pounds and pence? Whatever your reasons for choosing to include a dog in your life, whether it be work, play or simple companionship, the actual cost can vary widely depending on the breed you choose. Owning a dog is a huge commitment and you need to realise that some dogs can live 15 years or longer. There will be financial implications to owning a dog and prospective owners must not underestimate this and impulse buy a dog or puppy without thinking through the long term costs. With this in mind, it is worth asking yourself the following questions:

• Do you have the income to care for the dog for its entire lifetime, however long or short?
• Can you account for changes in circumstances? Loosing you job or house? Extra training classes should you dog develop behavioural issues? Vets fees in case of any unforeseen medical costs not covered by insurance (if you have it).
• It goes without saying that a larger breed of dog, for example St Bernards, Wolfhounds or Newfoundlands, will inevitably come with higher cost simply because of its physical size. It will require more food and bigger bowls, but smaller dogs such as most terrier types do tend to live longer than their larger counterparts meaning extra years costs. This is something you will have to consider.
• Costs often escalate as the dog ages – are you prepared for this?

Recent estimates by pet insurance companies put the average lifetime ownership costs of a dog at anywhere between £10, 000- £16,000. Depending on the duration of the dogs life, this can cost the owner over £1000 per year. Whichever way you look at it, that is a hefty chunk of your hard earned cash! With living costs rising on a daily basis, you need to be sure that you are willing and happy to part with the money for the privilege of having man’s best friend, eagerly waiting for you to come home. The relationship you have with your dog deserves to be special, so to help you make this decision, here is a guide of what costs you can expect to meet over the course of a dog’s life, notwithstanding the actual cost of buying or adopting the dog itself!

• Leading pet insurers have found that on average, feeding your dog accounts for over one third of the costs incurred by owners. With this in mind, it is worth investing the best quality pet food you can afford, and follow the manufacturer’s instructions! With dog obesity becoming a one of the fastest riding causes of health issues, you can save yourself money in terms of the actual food and subsequent trips to the vets! Costs for food are estimated to cost around between £300-£450 per year.
• Pet insurance is a double edged sword – it is the safety net you need should something unthinkable happen, but many people do not do their research properly and end up with a substandard policy which does not provide the cover you may need. For example, if your dog develops diabetes, over the course of its life it may cost you over £10,000 in medical costs and special diet alone! You need to check the details of the policy cover to ensure that ongoing medication and treatment is covered. This is one area it really does pay to shop around. Of course, the cost of the cover also depends on the breed, the size of the dog and its age, but you can account for anywhere between £150-£300 on average.
• Going on holiday? Who is looking after Fido for your well earned week or two away? Of course, with the increase in dog friendly holidays in the UK the option is there to take your dog with you, but if this is not possible or you prefer to have some alone time then a pet/house sitter or boarding kennel may be your only option. Costs for this range from £8 £20 per day, depending where or who you choose. So for an average weekly holiday you may face up to £140 for a weeks care. Again, you will want to make sure the care your beloved dog receives while you are away is first class, so choose wisely taking into account any reports from friends who may have used certain service providers previously.
• Dog walkers if you have to be out of the house at work, professional grooming costs and sundries such as treats, bowls, beds and presents all also add up! Some of these costs vary on the service you use and the size of your dog, (larger dog +more coat to cut and groom=a higher cost!), but you need to account for anywhere between £10-£15 per day for dog walkers, to £20 and over for a session at the groomers! Of course, these costs are wide ranging as some people may employ a dog walker each day and some on none, so costs such as these are very individual.
• Routine veterinary costs not covered by insurance such as worm and flea treatment, pet passport of you take your dog abroad and routine vaccinations all add up. This cost of this can cost easily over £150 per year.
• Remember that dogs do not care how much things cost and are just as happy to play with a homemade (but safe) toy as one costing £15 from a fancy pet shop. Be original and creative, share tips and advice from other dog owners and you will see that savings can be made in many of the areas outlined above.

Like a marriage, in sickness and in health, for richer or poorer and until death do you part, the unconditional relationship with your dog can be one of the most rewarding ones you can have. Before you make the decision, make sure you afford the commitment and ultimately you will find that the ride with your dog will be worth it.

Your 4 legged friend can live to a grand old age, and certainly dogs are living to a much older old then they did even just 40 years ago. In part, this is due to better access to veterinary care, improved vaccines and an greater understanding of the nutritional needs of a dog.

As a dog ages, it undergoes physiological changes which means that it has different nutritional requirements to that of a puppy or younger animal. Dogs are generally regarded as ‘senior’ if it is in the last 3rd of the breeds specific life expectancy. Some breeds live longer than others, for example, a breed such as Labrador can live up to the age of 13 years, meaning that it would be classed as ‘senior’ around the age of 8 years old. Of course, there are exceptions to this and exceptionally fit or active dogs may buckle this rule and live beyond their breed life expectancy.

Changes in the senior dog

As the dog ages, they undergo many changes, not only physical but also behavioural. Senior dogs may be less tolerant of children, their sleep patterns can be disturbed or they may display behaviour you would consider uncharacteristic for your dog, such as being snappy or growling when you touch a particular part of the body. This could be due inflammatory conditions such as arthritis which can cause pain in specific areas. With any changes in behaviour, it is always a good idea to seek veterinary advice to rule out any underlying medical causes. Generally, the older a dog gets the less active it becomes, due to a decrease in muscle mass , leading to a tendency to become overweight. Seniors are also more prone to age related conditions such as failure of some internal organs such as heart disease and their teeth, with many years of wear behind them, can become infected and diseased. Because of all these reasons, the owner needs to give special consideration to a senior dog’s diet.

The importance of maintaining a healthy weight

As your dog starts to enjoy its senior years, a certain amount of decrease in activity is inevitable, for many dogs at least. Being overweight can lead to many health issues, such as increased pressure on joints and heart conditions. As a responsible owner, you will want to do the best for your beloved dog, so the best option is to not let your dog become overweight in the first place. This is sometimes easier said than done! After all, who does not like making sure your dog has the occasional treat? The kindest thing you can do for your dog though is help it to maintain a good weight for its breed but tackling any weight gain is the most important aspect of care of a senior dog, should it happen. Usually overfeeding is the simple and main cause of obesity in dogs, but it is always wise to follow your vets or canine nutritionist advice in these matters.

Senior diets

Senior diets are a fine balance of protein, fat and fibre. Many dogs are able to continue with their usual diet, but in smaller portions. Foods which are manufactured as ‘senior’ diets are usually formulated to have fewer calories, lower fat and are high in fibre to maintain a good passage of the food through the gut to prevent constipation. If your dog has kidney issues, a diet with lower levels of phosphorus has been shown to be beneficial to the health of the dog. The level of protein in the diet is also critical in a dogs diet which has kidney issues and it is always wise to talk to your vet about this.

Leftovers in the fridge? Your dog will love them, but just follow these few tips.

Adding vegetables or lean meats such as chicken or turkey to your dogs food is a great way to increase essential vitamins and fibre to your dogs diet and can bulk up a meal. The addition of white or oily fish is also very beneficial to, with some oils found in fish improving symptoms of conditions such as arthritis. While usually being lower in fat, vegetables can be a good idea for dogs that need to shed a few pounds. If the meat is cooked in any stock, make sure it is a low sodium stock where possible, to prevent any extra strain on the heart. Adding some cereals or grains such as bran or brown rice can also be a good idea (although white rice is lower in phosphorus for dogs with kidney issues). In addition, some dogs may also be able to tolerate higher proteins in their diet and may enjoy the occasional boiled egg.

Home cooked diets are optimal for many seniors, and provided you do your research and ask your vets advice of what is suitable for your dog, and can provide a well balanced, additive free diet for your dog. That said, the quality of ‘off the shelf’ formulations of dog food has never been better. Whatever option you choose, many senior dogs will cope better with smaller meals.

Always make sure your dog has a bowl of clean, fresh water available.

Treats

Ideally, limit food treats and instead reward your senior dog with an extra stroke and cuddle. When you do feed treats, it is essential you make sure they are low fat or why not make your own? There are many recipes available which use healthy ingredients to make patties and biscuits which can be frozen in batches and defrosted in advance for a days’ supply. If your kitchen skills do not stretch this far, a simple boiled chicken breast cut into treat sized portions can be stored in the fridge in an airtight container for a few days’ supply of treats, or use the left over portion as a meal.

Supplements

Feeding of daily supplements such as glucosamine may aid and support older joints or fibre supplements will help your dog have regular toilet habits. If your dog does not or cannot eat a well balanced diet, supplements are essential so ask your vet for advice.

The last word……

Remember that your senior dog has specific physiological requirements and weight control is essential to keep your dog in tip top condition. Exercise tailored to your dogs ability is essential to maintain a healthy weight. Your dog deserves the best as it ages and by following advice from your vet or canine nutritionist, you can make sure its twilight years are the best you can possibly give it.

Are you planning a day out, trip or holiday? Home or abroad? Camping or hotel? Car or plane? Taking your dog? The questions are, of course, endless and this is one you will have asked yourself if your dog is a much loved part of the family. Travelling, taking a trip or holiday with your dog can be lots of fun providing you take the time to make the right arrangements for you, your family and your pet as poor planning can ruin a holiday for all concerned.

If it is not possible, or you do not want, to take your dog with you, then do you have the number of a good and reliable pet sitter or boarding kennel who you trust? If possible, find a local one by word of mouth as other people experiences are invaluable to provide a service which is right for you and your pet. Are your animals vaccinations up to date to go into a boarding kennel including kennel cough? And have you let the kennel owners or the pet sitter aware of any food allergies, medicines or peculiar habits fido has?

On the other hand, if your four legged best friend is joining you then read on. Forward planning is the name of the game to make sure your vacation goes as smoothly as possible and does not cause you any unnecessary headaches when it comes to travel, accommodation and activities.

But before you take any trip with your dog, whether it is to the local park or a little more far flung, it is worth bearing in mind some basics. Make sure your dog has a securely fitted collar with an up to date address, telephone number and maybe your vets’ telephone number. For holidays and trips further from home some vets recommend having a disc inscribed ‘I am on holiday’ with a mobile telephone number and maybe the number of a responsible friend or family member who is willing to be a contact in case of an emergency. It is also worth investing in a microchip for your dog for extra piece of mind it gives for a relatively low cost. So with the basics covered, and maybe your dogs training is as tip top as it can be to ensure the best possible behaviour during the trip, will mean that you are now ready for the next part, the fun part – planning your trip!

The pet friendly holiday market has boomed recently, especially with the rise of the ‘staycation’ (holidays at home within Scotland, England, Ireland or Wales).

There are various sources you can try to find the best holiday for you and your family including the 4 legged variety.

Camping remains a firm favourite of many and most campsite welcome well behaved dogs. The advantage of this is that the sites are often in areas which have good access to walks and trails. In the north if England (almost south Scotland!), the Hadrian’s Wall Camping, Caravan Site and Bunk Barn is a good bet, being very dog and child friendly on level tent sites and excellent site facilities. This is a beautiful area of the country with walks along the entire 73 mile route of the famous fortified wall, meaning that you can make them as long or as short as you like.

If you are looking for something a little further south, then the spectacular South West Coast Path cannot be beaten. The varied 630 mile length of this walk runs from Somerset taking in the Exmoor National Park through to the breathtaking coastal scenery of Devon, Cornwall and Dorset. It can easily be broken up into smaller sections and gives you the chance to walk on some of the finest beaches in England, an ideal place to try to tire out you canine companion, (but please observe the local authority rules about dogs on beaches at certain times of the year and remember to scoop any poop). Cliff top walks are also great fun and are the best vantage point for the glorious views, but remember to keep your dog under close control or on a lead here. The excellent Namparra Campsite near the Lizard Peninsula, Cornwall is pet friendly and is well located with several beaches, cove and walks just waiting for you to explore them.

If camping is not for you, and you want to try something different, why not try a holiday especially tailored for dogs and their owners? The Royvon Dog Boarding and Training Centre in Wales offers 3 day residential packages for dogs and their owners. During the 3 days, owners can expects a warm a welcome as their dogs and learn new training techniques, behaviour management, leadership and understanding your dog and, of course, long hikes and walks.

Another option is a boating holiday. Your dog can become a waterdog on one of Britain’s many miles of canals and inland waterways. A good company to try is Shire Cruises, which runs its canal and narrow boats through the deep, lush valleys of the Pennines and Yorkshire on canals which take you through remote countryside to the industrial heartlands of England. Canal holidays are great for dogs, and as canal banks are usually full of other dog walkers, your pet will have no shortage of company. Routes can be organised with Shire Cruises as a one way trip or return, plus day sails and shorter breaks may also be available.

Inspired? Your dog will certainly hope so! With such a plethora of choice available there will be something to suit everyone and information can be easily found on the internet.

It is a scenario that every dog owner has undoubtedly faced at some stage: The persistent canine that simply cannot or will not recognise what is “theirs” versus what is “yours,” and continually attempts to play with, chew or steal your own possessions. Whether it is your favourite slippers, the newspaper, children’s toys or even items of clothing or furniture, this annoying habit can be both destructive and inconvenient, as well as even potentially proving dangerous to your dog.

The usual reaction of “no!” or “leave it!” followed up by energetically pursuing the errant canine around the home and wrestling the prize from them might seem like the most obvious course of action to follow, particularly if the chances of damage to your property rise the longer you leave it; for instance, if your dog has taken your newspaper or something else that can easily become damaged by your dog. However, following this course of action, no matter how obvious it might seem at the time, can in fact cause more problems than it solves. If your dog gets an exaggerated reaction out of you when they take your things, even if that reaction is negative, you are in effect rewarding their behaviour with your response, something that can lead to an ongoing cycle of negative action by your dog and corresponding attention from yourself. This is particularly true if you then turn reclaiming your possessions into a chasing game, ended with a hearty bout of wrestling at the end!

So, how on earth can you reclaim your possessions from your errant dog effectively without storing up difficulty for later on down the line when the problem arises again? Read on to learn five simple steps to training your dog to leave your things alone when told!

1. Keep your cool

Step one of reclaiming what is rightfully yours is the key to the whole process: Keep your cool and don’t react instinctively by yelling and chasing after your dog. This can be difficult to achieve if your dog has taken something valuable or something that they will easily be able to destroy, but it is vital to get stage one down perfectly before you can continue through stages two through five. Getting your dog excited, wound up or stressed about things, even if they have been bad, will only escalate the situation, and may lead to them persistently looking for new things to steal and chew on or play with in order to find an outlet for their desire to chew and take ownership of things, or to ease their anxiety!

2. Make sure your dog knows they have done wrong

Don’t lunge for your dog or try to grab the item in question away from them, and don’t yell or smack your dog. Get your dog’s attention by using their name and movement to draw their eye, then give a command that they recognise (such as “no” or “leave it” or “drop it”). Reinforce this by placing a hand on your dog’s neck or rump to further divert them to look to you and follow your instruction, rather than focusing on the item they have made off with.

3. Divert your dog’s attention

Once your dog has surrendered the item in question, divert their attention away from it and what you are doing with it by offering them an alternative or reward, such as an appropriate toy that they particularly like, or a treat. If you haven’t managed to convince your dog to drop the item already following step two, this stage can also be used as a bargaining tool to convince your dog to hand over the thing that you want and receive something else instead.

Never offer your dog a “swap” and then take both the forbidden item and the offered swap away; this will cause your dog to reject your deal in future! Also, always ensure that your dog has dropped and given up the item that you want before you give them the alternative; do not accept your dog trying to keep both, or lunging for the original item when they already have the replacement in their posession!

4. Take ownership of the item in question

Taking ownership of the item that your dog has given up is important, and this means more than simply picking up the item and walking away with it. Make it clear to your dog through your body language and tone of voice that the item they took is yours, and not for sharing! This is an effective method of pack communication with your dog, and is how the pack leader (you, in this case!) will transmit to other dogs that they are not willing to share, in a language that your dog will easily understand.

5. Provide alternatives

Chewing things, burying toys and resource guarding are all natural canine behaviours, and if your dog has a particular propensity to undertake them you must allow an outlet for these needs in appropriate, healthy ways. Dogs also enjoy chewing things to relieve teething pain at the juvenile stage, and to ease stress and keep them occupied as adults.

Make sure that your dog has a suitable range of chews, toys and puzzles that they are allowed access to, in order to keep them on an even keel and divert them from taking your things instead!

If you are familiar with dogs, you will know that ears come in all shapes and sizes depending on the breed of the dog. But whether you have a Spaniel with long, lobular, pendent ears, a terrier type with small prick ears, they are one of the most prolific areas on your dogs’ body for breeding areas of all sorts of nasties……

Yeast infections, mites, fleas, cuts/injury and bacterial infections are just some of the problems encountered in this area and as the owner; it’s up to you to help your dog take care of this delicate and sensitive area.

In the first instance, you will need to keep your dog’s ears free of moisture, detritus/dirt and a build up of wax. Environments like this are the nicest, safest place for a whole host of parasites to take shelter, helping them annoy and possibly distress your dog and likely disgust you! However, not all ears were created equal! This means that different ears will need a different schedule of cleaning. Therefore, some breeds only need their ears cleaned every couple of weeks, whereas others will need daily attention. With this in mind, a good rule of thumb is that dogs with larger ears, especially if they drop down in graceful and long pendants, will need more frequent attention that dogs with smaller or prick ears. This is largely down to the fact that more dirt, moisture and bacteria simply have more of an opportunity to become trapped under the flap. Also, dogs with excessively hairy ears may also experience the same problems and a decent trim may be the key to helping you keep control of the situation.

Moisture control is probably one of the key elements to making sure you dog has healthy ears. This can be problematic, especially in dogs such as Spaniels who like swimming and have hairy, long and pendant ears to boot! Stopping water getting into the ear canal can be near impossible while they are swimming, but in the bath/shower at home, you can try placing large balls of cotton wool in the ears to minimise this (although your dog may not like it!). If water does go into the ears, then make sure that at the end of the activity, you have a dry, clean and lint free cloth or covered cotton pads on hand which you can use to gently dry them out as much as you can, taking care not to invade the sensitive opening to the inner ear itself.

Gentle handling is essential when it comes to ears – they are a delicate part of the body which can get easily damaged if you are too rough and do not pay attention when you are handling them. In addition, never use any equipment such as a baby cotton bud or other small objects which could easily get lodged in the ear canal. Your vet is an invaluable source of advice with regards to the correct ear care for your dog and may provide you with specialist cleaning fluids to help you do this at home. If you suspect injury, damage or infection (for example visible cuts, a build up of black or unusual material or foul smells from the ear), or the ears appear to be causing your dog distress (such as excessive scratching or pawing at them), then seek your vets advice. However, with a solid and regular routine of ear care, this should be minimised.

Dogs nails naturally wear down under most circumstances such as daily walks on tarmac roads or hard surfaces. If this is not the case and your dog mainly gets walked on softer surfaces such as sand or grass, then they will need a hand from you to keep their nails in check. You will know when the nails are excessively long as you may hear them ‘click’ on hard surfaces.

Many dogs do not like having their feet touched or handled (yes dogs can have ticklish feet!). While clipping toenails may not be either yours or their favorite activity, it has to be done! Getting your dog used to having their feet touched and handled from as early age as possible is the key to successfully undertaking this endeavor, but there are some dogs that dislike or fear it so much that they even need to be anesthetised to have it done. If you are starting from scratch though, try giving your dog their favorite treat after the trimming or foot handling session, along with lots of praise after it.

Before attempting a trim yourself, ask your vet or a professional groomer to show you how to trim your dogs nails as so to be able to do it quickly, correctly and with no injury to the nail. Of course, the right equipment is needed and specialist dog nail trimmers can be purchased in most pet shops. It may be a good idea to have a styptic powder pot or stick to hand, (see use in step by step guide below).

A dog’s toenail is made up of the nail itself and the ‘quick’. This is the pink part of your dog’s toenails that provides the blood supply to the nail. In dogs with dark nails, this is not always clearly visible. The trick is to avoid cutting into the quick because it can bleed a lot and is also very sensitive and in many cases painful when it is cut.

If you can’t do all your dog’s nails at once, never fear — you can clip them one paw at a time, with other activities or a resting period in between. Try our handy hints to help you undertake this yourself.

• Hold the foot steady, but hold it gently. You may also need to kneel with the dog between your legs or ask someone to hold him. Whatever you choose, make sure it is the position your dog is used to and feels comfortable in.
• Snip off a small bit of the end of each toenail. Do this millimetre by millimetre if necessary to avoid cutting down to the quick, especially in dogs with dark toenails. If the nail feels spongy while you’re trying to cut it, stop immediately — you may be cutting the quick!
• If your dog has dewclaws, remember that they will also need cutting. They can grow quickly and to long lengths as they do not touch the ground at any point, so will need keeping in check.
• If you do cut the quick, you will know about it and the dog probably will yelp! Do not panic and try to stop any bleeding immediately. If you cut the quick you’ll have an unhappy dog and a bloody mess to clean up! The quick will bleed quite a lot so if you cut it, you will need to apply styptic powder with a cotton swab or bud from a pot, or from a stick. This can be bought at pet shops and suppliers. Have a damp, clean and lint free cloth to hand ready to clean up styptic powder and blood as necessary.
• Seek veterinary advice if the bleeding does not stop or the nail/quick becomes infected in any way.

Remember that if you do cut the quick, your dog will probably remember it for quite a while afterwards and may not want to let you cut his nails again! So, while this can be done at home by yourself, if all else fails and either you or your dog becomes to stressed while attempting this, ask your vet or dog groomer to it for you instead! They will have had many years of practice and will be able to do it for you quickly and easily.

Flyball is a relatively new canine sport to the UK and is a fast, fun, furious and addictive team sport which both you and your dog will enjoy. After its UK debut at Crufts in 1990, Flyball clubs quickly sprang up over the UK and a regular following ensued, making it one of the most popular canine sports in the UK today.

Essentially, it is based on a team knockout style competition, where two teams of four dogs run against each other and the clock down parallel racing lanes, in which each dog in each team takes a turn to race down the line over a series of 4 hurdles, before hitting a pedal on the ball loaded flyball box. A tennis ball is then released, which the dog must catch and hold in its mouth as it makes its way back down the line and hurdles to the start line, before the next dog is the team is realised by its handler. This series of events takes place for each dog in the team until all 4 have run, with the clock stopping at the moment the last dog crosses the line. If one dog does not complete the run successfully, for instance running out over the hurdles instead of jumping them, then they must run again at the end of their team. Usually, the best out of 3 or 5 runs decided which team makes it through to the next round and so on until there is one winning team left.

The team itself consist of 4 dogs, 4 handlers and a ‘box loader’ who places the tennis balls in flyball box each dog triggers. There is usually a reserve dog and handler also. The area needed to run a flyball lane is typically very long as dogs can accelerate to very fast speeds over quite a short distance. There must also be a run off area over the start/finish line and a longer distance between the flyball box and the subsequent hurdle to give the dog room to catch the ball, turn and pick up speed for the return leg.

Equipment needed is minimal, but must of a safe standard, especially if it is to be used in competitions. The flyball box can be any flat fronted commercially made box, and all dogs must have received training in order to trigger the box as safely as possible. The 4 hurdles are usually around 12 inches in height although this can vary slightly if you have a smaller dog as a team member. They are painted white and for the dogs health and safety, they must have padded or flexible tops. Tennis balls are used and the team must have copious amounts of them! They need to be un-punctured to ensure they fly out of the box correctly. Many flyball teams have deals with their local tennis clubs to collect used balls when they no longer have the bounce needed for the game, so they have enough to use during in training.

Many dog breeds compete at flyball but dogs such as Border Collies tend to have the speed, obsession and drive to make the top competition grades. That said, Flyballers tend to be a friendly bunch who will welcome any dogs and owners to their clubs and teams. It is a case of the more the merrier in many cases! It is a great family friendly sport, as well as being excellent exercise for your dog, so what’s not to like! Interested? Your local Flyball team will certainly hope so. Most areas have local teams, whose contact details and website can be found online.

Futher Information

For futher information, see the british flyball association website by clicking here.

Feeding an adult dog is a fairly straight-forward matter, however getting a puppy’s diet right is a far more complicated issue, especially with all the conflicting advice on the internet. If you are buying a puppy from a breeder ensure that the puppy is at least 8 weeks old. Puppies any younger than this are not ready to leave their mother as they still require her milk for proper development. The three most important factors you need to concentrate on when constructing your puppy’s diet are – quality, variety and routine.

Quality

Buying cheap canned dog food is not a good way for your puppy to start his life. Between the ages of 8 weeks and a year your puppy will constantly be growing, which makes high quality food an absolute must for a future healthy dog. There is plenty of variety in dog food brands on the market, which comprise of good quality ingredients aimed specifically at certain stages in a puppy’s development. Smaller pet shops and supermarkets mainly sell the adult dog food brands and may not sell the best food for puppies, for the largest selection opt for pet superstores or buy over the internet. Look for food which is natural, and preferably contains real meat, rather than derivatives.

Variety

It is a common belief that puppies should not be given variety in their diet as it may upset their stomach. This can indeed be true when puppies are first exposed to new foods, however it is natural for your puppy’s stomach to have to adapt to new ingredients and it may result in the odd incidence of vomiting or diarrhea. It is important that you do not limit your puppy to dog food, and give him human-grade meat, such as chicken, once every few days and also mix some vegetables into his food. The best way to avoid a upset stomach is to introduce any new type of dog food or human food bit by bit, by incorporating it into his usual meals. However foods that should always be avoided include nuts, fruit stones, cooked bones, onion, garlic, chocolate, grapes and raisins. If you are unsure about a specific ingredient always consult your vet.

Routine

To avoid your puppy having an upset stomach or being under or over fed you should feed him a set number of times per day (as discussed below) and weigh or measure the food. Try to keep the times regular throughout the day. A routine will also help with house training as his bowel movements will become regular.

Between two to three months old you should feed your puppy three times a day, all meals should be equally sized. Between three to six months puppies reduce this to two times per day. At this time they sometimes lose their appetite or become more fussy about their food because they are teething. If your puppy is refusing to eat for more than a few days then it is best to contact your vet. Your puppy should be fed on high quality, age specific puppy food until he is one year old, at this stage you should slowly introduce your puppy to adult dog food until he transfers to it completely. Feed your dog twice a day for the rest of his life.

How Much Food?

This is a much more complicated issue as the amount varies with breed, size, age and type of food. The labels on dog food provide a guide which you should follow, but nothing compares to the advice of your vet. There are also calculators available on the internet that will calculate how much to feed your dog based on information about his size. You must make sure that you get this right because it is very easy to over or under feed which can result in health problems.

Should I Give My Dog a Bone?

Raw bones are helpful for oral health of your puppy, preventing teething problems and for fulfilling a natural instinct. You should only feed him raw bones that are too big to fit completely in the puppy’s mouth or be swallowed. Although bones keep a puppy occupied for a while, it is important not to give them too many – one per week is enough. Do not give your dog large marrow bones or T-Bones.

By following these simple guidelines your puppy will grow into a happy and healthy adult dog!

It is a scenario that every dog owner has undoubtedly faced at some stage: The persistent canine that simply cannot or will not recognise what is “theirs” versus what is “yours,” and continually attempts to play with, chew or steal your own possessions. Whether it is your favourite slippers, the newspaper, children’s toys or even items of clothing or furniture, this annoying habit can be both destructive and inconvenient, as well as even potentially proving dangerous to your dog.

The usual reaction of “no!” or “leave it!” followed up by energetically pursuing the errant canine around the home and wrestling the prize from them might seem like the most obvious course of action to follow, particularly if the chances of damage to your property rise the longer you leave it; for instance, if your dog has taken your newspaper or something else that can easily become damaged by your dog. However, following this course of action, no matter how obvious it might seem at the time, can in fact cause more problems than it solves. If your dog gets an exaggerated reaction out of you when they take your things, even if that reaction is negative, you are in effect rewarding their behaviour with your response, something that can lead to an ongoing cycle of negative action by your dog and corresponding attention from yourself. This is particularly true if you then turn reclaiming your possessions into a chasing game, ended with a hearty bout of wrestling at the end!

So, how on earth can you reclaim your possessions from your errant dog effectively without storing up difficulty for later on down the line when the problem arises again? Read on to learn five simple steps to training your dog to leave your things alone when told!

1. Keep your cool

Step one of reclaiming what is rightfully yours is the key to the whole process: Keep your cool and don’t react instinctively by yelling and chasing after your dog. This can be difficult to achieve if your dog has taken something valuable or something that they will easily be able to destroy, but it is vital to get stage one down perfectly before you can continue through stages two through five. Getting your dog excited, wound up or stressed about things, even if they have been bad, will only escalate the situation, and may lead to them persistently looking for new things to steal and chew on or play with in order to find an outlet for their desire to chew and take ownership of things, or to ease their anxiety!

2. Make sure your dog knows they have done wrong

Don’t lunge for your dog or try to grab the item in question away from them, and don’t yell or smack your dog. Get your dog’s attention by using their name and movement to draw their eye, then give a command that they recognise (such as “no” or “leave it” or “drop it”). Reinforce this by placing a hand on your dog’s neck or rump to further divert them to look to you and follow your instruction, rather than focusing on the item they have made off with.

3. Divert your dog’s attention

Once your dog has surrendered the item in question, divert their attention away from it and what you are doing with it by offering them an alternative or reward, such as an appropriate toy that they particularly like, or a treat. If you haven’t managed to convince your dog to drop the item already following step two, this stage can also be used as a bargaining tool to convince your dog to hand over the thing that you want and receive something else instead.

Never offer your dog a “swap” and then take both the forbidden item and the offered swap away; this will cause your dog to reject your deal in future! Also, always ensure that your dog has dropped and given up the item that you want before you give them the alternative; do not accept your dog trying to keep both, or lunging for the original item when they already have the replacement in their posession!

4. Take ownership of the item in question

Taking ownership of the item that your dog has given up is important, and this means more than simply picking up the item and walking away with it. Make it clear to your dog through your body language and tone of voice that the item they took is yours, and not for sharing! This is an effective method of pack communication with your dog, and is how the pack leader (you, in this case!) will transmit to other dogs that they are not willing to share, in a language that your dog will easily understand.

5. Provide alternatives

Chewing things, burying toys and resource guarding are all natural canine behaviours, and if your dog has a particular propensity to undertake them you must allow an outlet for these needs in appropriate, healthy ways. Dogs also enjoy chewing things to relieve teething pain at the juvenile stage, and to ease stress and keep them occupied as adults.

Make sure that your dog has a suitable range of chews, toys and puzzles that they are allowed access to, in order to keep them on an even keel and divert them from taking your things instead!