Category Rodents

Domesticated, or Fancy rats as they are also known, can be bred from at a very early age. With rats living on average for two years many owners consider breeding their own litter of kittens – for showing, to continue a line or just to have baby version of their beloved pet. You must however seriously consider whether you can look after your litter, and plan accordingly.

Should I breed from my rat?

Before you start planning you should seriously consider why you want to breed, and the possible consequences. There are many breeders with litters or rats that need rehoming, which may be an easier option if you are new to bringing up baby rats.

Looking after a pregnant doe and then the litter, is a big responsibility. Litters can range from 8 to 20 kittens, and you will need a lot of different cages to house them as they grow. You must also plan how you will home any kittens you cannot keep.

Does (female rats) should ideally be between 5-7 months when having their first litter. You should get your rat checked by a vet before embarking on breeding as you don’t want to breed on any health issues, or put your rat in danger. If your rat is old or has health problems, it may not be able to get pregnant – if it does, then it is not uncommon for the litter or even the doe to die. They also shouldn’t be overweight, as it can cause problems with the birth.

Temperament is extremely important. Well handled, friendly rats are perfect to breed from.

How do I choose the right partner?

Bucks (male rats) are able to breed from 6 to 9 months. If you aren’t lucky to own a buck, there are many breeders online you can contact. A list can be found on the National Fancy Rat Society website. You can either buy a buck (it is better to buy two so they can live together), or talk to the breeder about taking your doe when she is in season to be mated. Make sure you see the buck beforehand, and any of his kittens to ensure he is the buck for you!

A good partner should have the following:

• A friendly temperament is essential. An aggressive buck may well breed this temperament on, and could injure your doe.
• Be healthy – check in the weeks before you go to the breeders that he is well and not on any antibiotics.
• He should be a good size and not obese.

How do I make sure they mate?

Firstly, you must monitor your doe to see when she is on heat. She will be on heat, and therefore happy to mate, every four or five days. She will tend to become excited and a bit jumpy. When you think she is ready, put her and buck together in a cage away from other rats. Some breeders only do this overnight, whereas others leave the pair together for 10 days to make sure she definitely gets pregnant.

If you also own the buck, make sure you wash him before putting him back with other bucks. The smell of a female on his fur can make them aggressive.

If your doe comes back on heat, then start the process again. If it is a success, you will have 21-23 days before the litter arrives.

What do I need to prepare for their birth?

During the pregnancy you will need to keep the same healthy diet as before, so she doesn’t become fat. It is unwise to handle her too much as some rats can absorb the litter. Allow her to exercise as usual, but make sure there are no objects in her way. She will become very large, and walking will be difficult.

During this time you must prepare the birthing cage. Doe’s prefer to be alone when they give birth, and you want to make sure it is easy to get access to her without disturbing her too much. A large, single level cage is ideal, with a top that has a wide opening. Plenty of bedding should be provided, so she can make her birthing nest. If you want to provide an igloo, make sure it breaks into two halves so you can open it after the birth.

What should I do during and after the birth?

A few days before she is due, move her into the birthing cage. You should make sure you research what to do when you can see the doe is ready to birth. In most cases it will only take an hour for all of the kittens to be born. Should you notice your rat is distressed or there is excessive bleeding you must seek veterinary advice. Do not touch the doe or kittens unless there is a problem. If you need to, make sure you rub your hands in the bedding so you smell of the doe.

When the doe leaves the nest to eat or drink this usually means that all of the litter have been born. Only check on them when the doe is outside of the nest. Rats can be very protective of their young Leave the mother with the kittens for the first few days. When the doe comes out to feed, remove her from the nest briefly so you can handle the kittens. After a few days she will become a lot calmer, so you can start to get the kittens all used to being handled, and check on their development.

At 4 to 5 weeks, move all of the buck kittens into a separate cage. They can move in with any other bucks you have, but make sure there is no fighting. The female kittens can stay with the doe, or move into the larger doe cage. If you plan to sell or rehome some of the kittens, keep them separately, split by sex.

How can I make sure they all get good homes?

Do your homework! Always make sure you speak and meet potential new owners. Many new rat owners would prefer to buy from you than a pet shop, as they can meet the parents and make sure they are in good health. Check out the guidance on buying a new petbefore you sell or buy.

Pet mice, or ‘fancy mice’ as they are known, are not difficult to breed once you are aware of the do’s and don’ts. Female mice, or ‘does’ as they are called will likely breed if housed with, or introduced properly to males ‘bucks’. To make sure your mice have litters as comfortably and healthy as possible there is some support you can offer. You will need to have enough cages, healthy mice and understand when to introduce and remove the mating partners.

Why do People Breed Mice?

There are a few different reasons why people choose to breed mice, most often it is to increase their numbers of mice because they enjoy them as pets. Mice make great pets for pet owners of all ages and levels of experience. They enjoy socialising and interacting with people and are happy sitting in the palm of someone’s hand, or running up and down their arms.

Mice rarely ever bite or harm people, if this does happen there is usually a good reason behind it and you were probably warned without realising. Due to mice having a lifespan of around 18 months it is not always easy to find baby mice so some people prefer to breed their own litter.

Optimal Breeding Age and cycles

It is possible for female mice to start having litters as early as four weeks of age. The optimal age however is when the mouse is at least 12 weeks old, this greatly increases the chance of a safe delivery of healthy babies. The oldest age a female should be bred is around 8 months.

A doe should be not be re-introduced to bucks until around a month after giving birth to allow full recovery. Also, does should not have more than 3 litters in a lifetime, exceeding this number of litters can affect their health and lifespan, along with the babies of future litters.

Choosing and Introducing Mates

When choosing the buck to use as the mate you need to make sure of the following; the buck is mature and in good health, not aggressive to other mice, and does not have any signs of genetic problems that may be passed on.

When introducing the buck you need to introduce the female into his cage. This will lessen the likelihood of the doe fighting for her territory and allow them to be introduced peacefully. Sometimes there will be isolated cases of fighting, unless this continues for several minutes or becomes frequent it is nothing to worry about. A female will often have to fight off the male when she is not on heat. If you are concerned that they are fighting too often you will have to put the female back into a separate cage.

Every 5 days or so female mice are on heat. It is recommended you leave the female in the cage with the male for around 10 days before removing and placing her into a separate cage, this will ensure two cycles and usually be enough time for a successful mating.

The gestation period of mice is 21 days on average, with litter size being around 10-12 babies. You should assume that your mouse is pregnant after removing her from the buck and change their diet a little. Adding more fatty/protein foods into their diet will help with a healthy pregnancy. You can use cat or dog treats, or prepare some pieces of cooked meat and egg whites along with the normal mouse food mix.

Make sure that there is always fresh water available and add plenty of bedding to the cage so the female can make a nice big nest.

How to Tell Your Mouse is Pregnant

There are several ways to tell if your mouse is pregnant, if you are unsure you can check the following:

Building nests – A pregnant female will start building a large nest for the expected babies. It will either be in her existing sleeping area or a new area in the cage. Make sure you provide plenty of paper strips for her to use and do not disrupt this area when cleaning the cage.

Larger stomach – This is the obvious one, although some mice with a small litter will not be showing much if at all. It is not unheard of for owners to be surprised when they find a litter of new born pups in the cage all of a sudden, completely unaware they had a pregnant female.

Female is ‘plugged’ – After mating with a buck the female will have a plug preventing any further mating for 2-3 days. This is formed by excess fluids from the successful mate, it does not guarantee a successful pregnancy however.

Changes in behaviour – A pregnant mouse will behave differently than it did before mating. There will be times that she is very tired and lethargic. Or she might become anti-social and a little short tempered.

During and After Birth Instructions

You will not need to do anything during birth and it is recommended you do not touch either the mother or her young for at least the first two days. After four days have passed you can handle the young, this will help tame them for future handling. If you want to know the sex of the new born mice, the females will have visible nipples and the males will not.

At around two weeks old they will open their eyes fully and start to become active. If you have not handled young mice before you will need to be very cautious as they can make very quick movements with little warning. Being curious like all young animals they can do themselves an injury by jumping out of your hands, or falling off somewhere you have placed them.

At around five weeks old you can separate the male and female mice into new cages to avoid any more breeding. They no longer require their mother to look after them and can be rehomed if necessary.

Most owners at some point in time will consider breeding from their pets. As gerbils are so easy to keep, it is very tempting to try to breed them before moving onto other rodents. There are a number of things you must consider however before you start.

Should I breed from my gerbil?

Always think carefully before you let your gerbils breed. You will need to rehome the pups, and if you don’t know people who are looking for one it can be difficult. Check local animal rescue centres, if there are a lot of gerbils already looking for homes selling them locally may prove difficult. You may notice a lack of a certain colour, in which case trying to breed that may help rehoming.

You will also need to prepare for the extra expense. You will need multiple cages to split the sexes into once weaned. As a result you will need extra bedding, feeders and toys to keep them occupied.

If you do decide to create a breeding pair, they will breed every six weeks. If this is too often, you will need to keep your breeding pair apart which can be distressing as well as expensive as you will need two separate tanks. Make sure you check the health of each gerbil, as you do not want to breed on defects or put ill or old gerbils through a difficult birth.

Can I predetermine what colour my gerbil pups will be?

As with all genetics, it is a science with no certainty. You can however research which colours can be produced from mating two different breeds or colours. Always be aware of the many options, and check if there are any genetic mutations that can be caused by mating different colours or breeds.

How do I introduce my breeding pair safely?

Gerbils can be quite territorial, so when you bring a new male or female to breed with your gerbil you will need to take time to introduce them. If you get a young pair, under 8 weeks, it will take less time. Split your tank with a wire mesh. It must be strong enough for them to not gnaw through, but also open enough so they can sniff each other. If this is difficult, you can put a smaller cage inside the tank, but you will need to rotate the pair so each takes a turn within the cage to break up the territory. You will notice over a few days the pair will start to sleep next to or groom each other between the bars as they bond. If they continue to be aggressive, the pairing may not work.

When you are ready to remove the divide after two weeks, make sure you are wearing strong gloves in case any fighting starts. If the bonding has been successful you will notice the gerbils sniffing each other, and thumping their back feet. Some even start grooming each other straight away and making a nest to sleep in.

If the gerbils become aggressive, fighting or chasing each other, you will need to split them immediately. You can try the split-cage method again, but it may be they are just not suited.

How do I prepare the breeding tank?

You will need to pup proof the cage before the breeding pair mate. Remove any objects or bedding that could crush or cause injury to a pup. Wheels will need to be removed, plus any toys or houses. You will also need to look at the bedding – anything which produces a lot of dust or oils will harm the pups lungs. Fibrous bedding can also get caught around their limbs leading to injuries and amputation. To keep the parents entertained, add some cardboard boxes and tubes they can gnaw, and some shredded toilet paper so they can make a nest.

When the pups are born you can add a small bowl of sand for them all to bathe in. Once they get over two weeks old, you can start to return toys and items for the adults to chew.

What happens after the mating?

Once your pair have mated, you will notice she may start to get slightly larger. In the early stages you may also see the sides rippling as the pups move. Try not to handle the female as you don’t want to hurt her or damage the pups. Gerbils usually have a gestation period between 24 to 28 days.

You will be able to spot when your gerbil is ready to give birth, as she will be a lot quieter than usual and probably sit finishing her nest. It is not easy to tell when the contractions start, but the male will move away, leaving the female space to give birth. Once the first pup is ready, the gerbil will pull it out and start to groom it. This stimulates the blood flow and starts the pup breathing. She will groom and rest in-between each pup.

You will also notice that the male will mate with her during the birth. This is completely natural. If you do not want another set of pups, you can remove the male. This will cause problems however as both parents will bring up the pups. Ideally you may want to neuter the male when you know the female is pregnant.

At the very end of the process, the female will give birth to the placenta. The mother will eat this for extra nutrients.

How do I look after the pups?

When the pups are born they will be hairless and have their eyes closed. Do not touch them for the first few days, so the mother and father can look after them. When you do start to handle them be very careful how you pick them up. Don’t hold them for more than 15 minutes as the mother will get very distressed.

After four days their ears will start to appear, and coat markings. By day eight they will start to move around the tank, despite not having open eyes. Their eyes open after 3 weeks. You will now need to start taming them, as they will not recognise a hand as a friendly object. They will also have grown all of their fur, and start drinking from the water bottle. Between 6 to 8 weeks you can remove them from the parents, splitting them into a tank for each sex. You can now start to rehome them.

Domesticated, or Fancy rats as they are also known, can be bred from at a very early age. With rats living on average for two years many owners consider breeding their own litter of kittens – for showing, to continue a line or just to have baby version of their beloved pet. You must however seriously consider whether you can look after your litter, and plan accordingly.

Should I breed from my rat?

Before you start planning you should seriously consider why you want to breed, and the possible consequences. There are many breeders with litters or rats that need rehoming, which may be an easier option if you are new to bringing up baby rats.

Looking after a pregnant doe and then the litter, is a big responsibility. Litters can range from 8 to 20 kittens, and you will need a lot of different cages to house them as they grow. You must also plan how you will home any kittens you cannot keep.

Does (female rats) should ideally be between 5-7 months when having their first litter. You should get your rat checked by a vet before embarking on breeding as you don’t want to breed on any health issues, or put your rat in danger. If your rat is old or has health problems, it may not be able to get pregnant – if it does, then it is not uncommon for the litter or even the doe to die. They also shouldn’t be overweight, as it can cause problems with the birth.

Temperament is extremely important. Well handled, friendly rats are perfect to breed from.

How do I choose the right partner?

Bucks (male rats) are able to breed from 6 to 9 months. If you aren’t lucky to own a buck, there are many breeders online you can contact. A list can be found on the National Fancy Rat Society website. You can either buy a buck (it is better to buy two so they can live together), or talk to the breeder about taking your doe when she is in season to be mated. Make sure you see the buck beforehand, and any of his kittens to ensure he is the buck for you!

A good partner should have the following:

• A friendly temperament is essential. An aggressive buck may well breed this temperament on, and could injure your doe.
• Be healthy – check in the weeks before you go to the breeders that he is well and not on any antibiotics.
• He should be a good size and not obese.

How do I make sure they mate?

Firstly, you must monitor your doe to see when she is on heat. She will be on heat, and therefore happy to mate, every four or five days. She will tend to become excited and a bit jumpy. When you think she is ready, put her and buck together in a cage away from other rats. Some breeders only do this overnight, whereas others leave the pair together for 10 days to make sure she definitely gets pregnant.

If you also own the buck, make sure you wash him before putting him back with other bucks. The smell of a female on his fur can make them aggressive.

If your doe comes back on heat, then start the process again. If it is a success, you will have 21-23 days before the litter arrives.

What do I need to prepare for their birth?

During the pregnancy you will need to keep the same healthy diet as before, so she doesn’t become fat. It is unwise to handle her too much as some rats can absorb the litter. Allow her to exercise as usual, but make sure there are no objects in her way. She will become very large, and walking will be difficult.

During this time you must prepare the birthing cage. Doe’s prefer to be alone when they give birth, and you want to make sure it is easy to get access to her without disturbing her too much. A large, single level cage is ideal, with a top that has a wide opening. Plenty of bedding should be provided, so she can make her birthing nest. If you want to provide an igloo, make sure it breaks into two halves so you can open it after the birth.

What should I do during and after the birth?

A few days before she is due, move her into the birthing cage. You should make sure you research what to do when you can see the doe is ready to birth. In most cases it will only take an hour for all of the kittens to be born. Should you notice your rat is distressed or there is excessive bleeding you must seek veterinary advice. Do not touch the doe or kittens unless there is a problem. If you need to, make sure you rub your hands in the bedding so you smell of the doe.

When the doe leaves the nest to eat or drink this usually means that all of the litter have been born. Only check on them when the doe is outside of the nest. Rats can be very protective of their young Leave the mother with the kittens for the first few days. When the doe comes out to feed, remove her from the nest briefly so you can handle the kittens. After a few days she will become a lot calmer, so you can start to get the kittens all used to being handled, and check on their development.

At 4 to 5 weeks, move all of the buck kittens into a separate cage. They can move in with any other bucks you have, but make sure there is no fighting. The female kittens can stay with the doe, or move into the larger doe cage. If you plan to sell or rehome some of the kittens, keep them separately, split by sex.

How can I make sure they all get good homes?

Do your homework! Always make sure you speak and meet potential new owners. Many new rat owners would prefer to buy from you than a pet shop, as they can meet the parents and make sure they are in good health. Check out the guidance on buying a new petbefore you sell or buy.

Pet mice, or ‘fancy mice’ as they are known, are not difficult to breed once you are aware of the do’s and don’ts. Female mice, or ‘does’ as they are called will likely breed if housed with, or introduced properly to males ‘bucks’. To make sure your mice have litters as comfortably and healthy as possible there is some support you can offer. You will need to have enough cages, healthy mice and understand when to introduce and remove the mating partners.

Why do People Breed Mice?

There are a few different reasons why people choose to breed mice, most often it is to increase their numbers of mice because they enjoy them as pets. Mice make great pets for pet owners of all ages and levels of experience. They enjoy socialising and interacting with people and are happy sitting in the palm of someone’s hand, or running up and down their arms.

Mice rarely ever bite or harm people, if this does happen there is usually a good reason behind it and you were probably warned without realising. Due to mice having a lifespan of around 18 months it is not always easy to find baby mice so some people prefer to breed their own litter.

Optimal Breeding Age and cycles

It is possible for female mice to start having litters as early as four weeks of age. The optimal age however is when the mouse is at least 12 weeks old, this greatly increases the chance of a safe delivery of healthy babies. The oldest age a female should be bred is around 8 months.

A doe should be not be re-introduced to bucks until around a month after giving birth to allow full recovery. Also, does should not have more than 3 litters in a lifetime, exceeding this number of litters can affect their health and lifespan, along with the babies of future litters.

Choosing and Introducing Mates

When choosing the buck to use as the mate you need to make sure of the following; the buck is mature and in good health, not aggressive to other mice, and does not have any signs of genetic problems that may be passed on.

When introducing the buck you need to introduce the female into his cage. This will lessen the likelihood of the doe fighting for her territory and allow them to be introduced peacefully. Sometimes there will be isolated cases of fighting, unless this continues for several minutes or becomes frequent it is nothing to worry about. A female will often have to fight off the male when she is not on heat. If you are concerned that they are fighting too often you will have to put the female back into a separate cage.

Every 5 days or so female mice are on heat. It is recommended you leave the female in the cage with the male for around 10 days before removing and placing her into a separate cage, this will ensure two cycles and usually be enough time for a successful mating.

The gestation period of mice is 21 days on average, with litter size being around 10-12 babies. You should assume that your mouse is pregnant after removing her from the buck and change their diet a little. Adding more fatty/protein foods into their diet will help with a healthy pregnancy. You can use cat or dog treats, or prepare some pieces of cooked meat and egg whites along with the normal mouse food mix.

Make sure that there is always fresh water available and add plenty of bedding to the cage so the female can make a nice big nest.

How to Tell Your Mouse is Pregnant

There are several ways to tell if your mouse is pregnant, if you are unsure you can check the following:

Building nests – A pregnant female will start building a large nest for the expected babies. It will either be in her existing sleeping area or a new area in the cage. Make sure you provide plenty of paper strips for her to use and do not disrupt this area when cleaning the cage.

Larger stomach – This is the obvious one, although some mice with a small litter will not be showing much if at all. It is not unheard of for owners to be surprised when they find a litter of new born pups in the cage all of a sudden, completely unaware they had a pregnant female.

Female is ‘plugged’ – After mating with a buck the female will have a plug preventing any further mating for 2-3 days. This is formed by excess fluids from the successful mate, it does not guarantee a successful pregnancy however.

Changes in behaviour – A pregnant mouse will behave differently than it did before mating. There will be times that she is very tired and lethargic. Or she might become anti-social and a little short tempered.

During and After Birth Instructions

You will not need to do anything during birth and it is recommended you do not touch either the mother or her young for at least the first two days. After four days have passed you can handle the young, this will help tame them for future handling. If you want to know the sex of the new born mice, the females will have visible nipples and the males will not.

At around two weeks old they will open their eyes fully and start to become active. If you have not handled young mice before you will need to be very cautious as they can make very quick movements with little warning. Being curious like all young animals they can do themselves an injury by jumping out of your hands, or falling off somewhere you have placed them.

At around five weeks old you can separate the male and female mice into new cages to avoid any more breeding. They no longer require their mother to look after them and can be rehomed if necessary.

Most owners at some point in time will consider breeding from their pets. As gerbils are so easy to keep, it is very tempting to try to breed them before moving onto other rodents. There are a number of things you must consider however before you start.

Should I breed from my gerbil?

Always think carefully before you let your gerbils breed. You will need to rehome the pups, and if you don’t know people who are looking for one it can be difficult. Check local animal rescue centres, if there are a lot of gerbils already looking for homes selling them locally may prove difficult. You may notice a lack of a certain colour, in which case trying to breed that may help rehoming.

You will also need to prepare for the extra expense. You will need multiple cages to split the sexes into once weaned. As a result you will need extra bedding, feeders and toys to keep them occupied.

If you do decide to create a breeding pair, they will breed every six weeks. If this is too often, you will need to keep your breeding pair apart which can be distressing as well as expensive as you will need two separate tanks. Make sure you check the health of each gerbil, as you do not want to breed on defects or put ill or old gerbils through a difficult birth.

Can I predetermine what colour my gerbil pups will be?

As with all genetics, it is a science with no certainty. You can however research which colours can be produced from mating two different breeds or colours. Always be aware of the many options, and check if there are any genetic mutations that can be caused by mating different colours or breeds.

How do I introduce my breeding pair safely?

Gerbils can be quite territorial, so when you bring a new male or female to breed with your gerbil you will need to take time to introduce them. If you get a young pair, under 8 weeks, it will take less time. Split your tank with a wire mesh. It must be strong enough for them to not gnaw through, but also open enough so they can sniff each other. If this is difficult, you can put a smaller cage inside the tank, but you will need to rotate the pair so each takes a turn within the cage to break up the territory. You will notice over a few days the pair will start to sleep next to or groom each other between the bars as they bond. If they continue to be aggressive, the pairing may not work.

When you are ready to remove the divide after two weeks, make sure you are wearing strong gloves in case any fighting starts. If the bonding has been successful you will notice the gerbils sniffing each other, and thumping their back feet. Some even start grooming each other straight away and making a nest to sleep in.

If the gerbils become aggressive, fighting or chasing each other, you will need to split them immediately. You can try the split-cage method again, but it may be they are just not suited.

How do I prepare the breeding tank?

You will need to pup proof the cage before the breeding pair mate. Remove any objects or bedding that could crush or cause injury to a pup. Wheels will need to be removed, plus any toys or houses. You will also need to look at the bedding – anything which produces a lot of dust or oils will harm the pups lungs. Fibrous bedding can also get caught around their limbs leading to injuries and amputation. To keep the parents entertained, add some cardboard boxes and tubes they can gnaw, and some shredded toilet paper so they can make a nest.

When the pups are born you can add a small bowl of sand for them all to bathe in. Once they get over two weeks old, you can start to return toys and items for the adults to chew.

What happens after the mating?

Once your pair have mated, you will notice she may start to get slightly larger. In the early stages you may also see the sides rippling as the pups move. Try not to handle the female as you don’t want to hurt her or damage the pups. Gerbils usually have a gestation period between 24 to 28 days.

You will be able to spot when your gerbil is ready to give birth, as she will be a lot quieter than usual and probably sit finishing her nest. It is not easy to tell when the contractions start, but the male will move away, leaving the female space to give birth. Once the first pup is ready, the gerbil will pull it out and start to groom it. This stimulates the blood flow and starts the pup breathing. She will groom and rest in-between each pup.

You will also notice that the male will mate with her during the birth. This is completely natural. If you do not want another set of pups, you can remove the male. This will cause problems however as both parents will bring up the pups. Ideally you may want to neuter the male when you know the female is pregnant.

At the very end of the process, the female will give birth to the placenta. The mother will eat this for extra nutrients.

How do I look after the pups?

When the pups are born they will be hairless and have their eyes closed. Do not touch them for the first few days, so the mother and father can look after them. When you do start to handle them be very careful how you pick them up. Don’t hold them for more than 15 minutes as the mother will get very distressed.

After four days their ears will start to appear, and coat markings. By day eight they will start to move around the tank, despite not having open eyes. Their eyes open after 3 weeks. You will now need to start taming them, as they will not recognise a hand as a friendly object. They will also have grown all of their fur, and start drinking from the water bottle. Between 6 to 8 weeks you can remove them from the parents, splitting them into a tank for each sex. You can now start to rehome them.

The capybara is the world’s largest rodent, weighing between 35-66kg and standing up to 65cm tall at the withers. Their closest relatives are rock cavies and guinea pigs, and they are native to the South American savannahs. The capybara is a very social rodent, and in the wild, they live in family groups of up to as many as 100, although 20 or so is a more usual number of pack members. Looking somewhat like a really, really large guinea pig, this big, undeniably cute dog-sized rodent can prove very appealing to people who are looking for an exotic pet from the larger end of the scale!

The capybara is an animal you would be more likely to see in a zoo rather than in someone’s home, and for good reason! They require a lot of space and resources to keep as a pet. 

Is it legal to keep a capybara?

It is not against the law to own a capybara in the UK, but in order to do so, you must have a licence for your pet that is issued by your local council. The remit of the licence ensures that your home, garden and facilities are suitable for a capybara to live in, and also that the area in which you live, your neighbours and other people are not going to be adversely affected by your new pet.

Cost

If you are looking for a cheap pet, the capybara is a definite no-no! As well as being unusual and hard to buy, if you can find one offered for sale, you may have to shell out several thousand pounds to pay for it! Added to this, the care, facilities and upkeep required by the capybara are potentially onerous, and you will need to make some alterations to your home and garden to accommodate for your new pet.

What facilities do you need to keep a capybara?

First of all, remember that the capybara is a large animal that can reach over four feet long, and so needs plenty of room to move around! To keep one to three capybaras comfortably, the minimum size of their outdoor enclosure will need to be at least 20ft square. Within the enclosure there should be a sunny area for basking, plus a cooler, shaded area that your pets can use to stay out of the heat.

You will also need to provide kennelling or indoor space for your capybaras to sleep in or use to get in out of the cold, with hay for bedding. During the colder months of the year, you may also need to install a heat lamp to allow your pets to stay warm. Fencing for your land and enclosure must be sufficient to prevent escape, and a fence that is at least four feet high and rooted in concrete is the best way to ensure that you won’t have an escapee on your hands! Capybaras are very good at squeezing themselves through small spaces, so choosing the right fencing is vital.

Access to clean, fresh water at all times is vital for capybaras, and this should be topped up regularly. Capybaras also need a swimming hole, to mimic the savannah areas that they are native to.

Providing a swimming hole

All capybaras must have access to a swimming hole, as living by the water and being in the water are natural parts of capybara life. The capybara is actually a semi-aquatic animal, having webbed feet, and in the wild, they spend lots of time in the water to stay cool and keep their skin from becoming dry.

Their swimming hole should have ramped access to allow your capybaras to get into and out of the water easily, and should be deep enough for them to become fully submerged. The minimum depth of the pool should be 3.5 feet, but it can be much deeper if you wish. The wider the swimming hole is, the happier your capybara will be!

What do capybaras eat?

Capybaras are vegetarians, and in the wild, they graze on grass and aquatic plants, supplemented with fresh fruit and vegetables. Capybaras make for excellent natural lawnmowers if you have a large lawn or field! You should also feed your capybara hay and cattle pellets, as well as ensuring that you do not use any pesticides or other treatments on the grass that they graze.

Capybaras, like many rodents, have teeth that are constantly growing, and if they are not worn down naturally, can make it a challenge for your pet to eat, which may mean that they need to have their teeth cut down by your vet. Supply plenty of sticks and branches for your capybara to chew on, in order to allow them to wear down their teeth naturally and prevent dental problems. Check that the wood in question is safe for your pet before offering it; willow or birch branches are the most popular choices.

The capybara is the world’s largest rodent, weighing between 35-66kg and standing up to 65cm tall at the withers. Their closest relatives are rock cavies and guinea pigs, and they are native to the South American savannahs. The capybara is a very social rodent, and in the wild, they live in family groups of up to as many as 100, although 20 or so is a more usual number of pack members. Looking somewhat like a really, really large guinea pig, this big, undeniably cute dog-sized rodent can prove very appealing to people who are looking for an exotic pet from the larger end of the scale!

The capybara is an animal you would be more likely to see in a zoo rather than in someone’s home, and for good reason! They require a lot of space and resources to keep as a pet. 

Is it legal to keep a capybara?

It is not against the law to own a capybara in the UK, but in order to do so, you must have a licence for your pet that is issued by your local council. The remit of the licence ensures that your home, garden and facilities are suitable for a capybara to live in, and also that the area in which you live, your neighbours and other people are not going to be adversely affected by your new pet.

Cost

If you are looking for a cheap pet, the capybara is a definite no-no! As well as being unusual and hard to buy, if you can find one offered for sale, you may have to shell out several thousand pounds to pay for it! Added to this, the care, facilities and upkeep required by the capybara are potentially onerous, and you will need to make some alterations to your home and garden to accommodate for your new pet.

What facilities do you need to keep a capybara?

First of all, remember that the capybara is a large animal that can reach over four feet long, and so needs plenty of room to move around! To keep one to three capybaras comfortably, the minimum size of their outdoor enclosure will need to be at least 20ft square. Within the enclosure there should be a sunny area for basking, plus a cooler, shaded area that your pets can use to stay out of the heat.

You will also need to provide kennelling or indoor space for your capybaras to sleep in or use to get in out of the cold, with hay for bedding. During the colder months of the year, you may also need to install a heat lamp to allow your pets to stay warm. Fencing for your land and enclosure must be sufficient to prevent escape, and a fence that is at least four feet high and rooted in concrete is the best way to ensure that you won’t have an escapee on your hands! Capybaras are very good at squeezing themselves through small spaces, so choosing the right fencing is vital.

Access to clean, fresh water at all times is vital for capybaras, and this should be topped up regularly. Capybaras also need a swimming hole, to mimic the savannah areas that they are native to.

Providing a swimming hole

All capybaras must have access to a swimming hole, as living by the water and being in the water are natural parts of capybara life. The capybara is actually a semi-aquatic animal, having webbed feet, and in the wild, they spend lots of time in the water to stay cool and keep their skin from becoming dry.

Their swimming hole should have ramped access to allow your capybaras to get into and out of the water easily, and should be deep enough for them to become fully submerged. The minimum depth of the pool should be 3.5 feet, but it can be much deeper if you wish. The wider the swimming hole is, the happier your capybara will be!

What do capybaras eat?

Capybaras are vegetarians, and in the wild, they graze on grass and aquatic plants, supplemented with fresh fruit and vegetables. Capybaras make for excellent natural lawnmowers if you have a large lawn or field! You should also feed your capybara hay and cattle pellets, as well as ensuring that you do not use any pesticides or other treatments on the grass that they graze.

Capybaras, like many rodents, have teeth that are constantly growing, and if they are not worn down naturally, can make it a challenge for your pet to eat, which may mean that they need to have their teeth cut down by your vet. Supply plenty of sticks and branches for your capybara to chew on, in order to allow them to wear down their teeth naturally and prevent dental problems. Check that the wood in question is safe for your pet before offering it; willow or birch branches are the most popular choices.

What is Rabbit Awareness Week? 

Here at Pets4Homes, we are delighted to be celebrating Rabbit Awareness Week 2022, also known as ‘RAW’ which is an annual campaign dedicated to the welfare of rabbits. It runs from 27th-1st July and this year the focus is “Room for Rabbits”. 

It aims to educate rabbit owners on all aspects of their care and it’s proudly supported by a number of charity partners. 

• Rabbit Welfare Association and Fund 
• Woodgreen Pets Charity
• RSPCA 
• PDSA 
• Blue Cross 
• Burgess Pet Care

Why is making “Room for Rabbits” important? 

Along with behavior, diet, companionship and health, the environment rabbits live in is crucial to their wellbeing. These are known as the 5 welfare needs. Whether your rabbits live indoors or outdoors it is essential that they have enough space to exhibit their natural behaviors.

What was once thought of as rabbits’ main housing area, put simply, a cramped hutch is not enough. Rabbits need space to roam and a secure exercise area that is permanently attached to their housing which is protected from the elements and predators.

Suzanne Moyes, in-house vet at Burgess Pet Care says just how important housing is: “It remains a common misconception that rabbits are easy, low maintenance pets that are ideal for children – but a lack of understanding of these curious and intelligent creatures means that many are suffering, even though that’s the last thing many owners would want. Following a surge in demand for rabbit ownership in the UK during the past two years, it is more important than ever that collectively we educate owners and continue to help improve rabbits’ welfare. One of the ways to do this is by helping owners understand their housing needs and how this impacts upon their wellbeing.”

How much space do rabbits need?

Our rabbits’ home needs to be tall enough for them to stand up on their back legs without their long ears touching the roof. As rabbits love to run, jump, explore and forage and take consecutive hops, they should also be able to lie fully outstretched in any direction, and enjoy doing all of the things that come naturally to them! 

The housing itself should be big enough to allow your rabbits to make at least three hops. It’s recommended it is a minimum of 3m x 2m x 1m tall. Their hutch should be permanently attached to a larger space within which they can exercise freely. This could be a safe bunny-proofed room indoors, or a large run outdoors.

Your rabbits should also have full access to their exercise area at all times so they can run around as they would in the wild.

In the wild, rabbits are prey animals so it is important that they feel safe. Your rabbits’ housing should have safe hiding places so that they can escape if they feel scared. Make sure you have a secure shelter with plenty of suitable bedding and dust-free hay.

Your rabbits will also need access to an area where they can go to the toilet. This should be separate to the sleeping areas, and you can use newspaper, hay/straw and/or a paper based non-expanding litter.

It’s important to provide enrichment toys for your rabbits. Tunnels, platforms, as well as at least one hiding place per rabbit with two entrances/exits work well. Rabbits love to dig, and there are some great rabbit housing attachments that you can add to your current set up to facilitate this!

Your rabbits should have a constant fresh supply of good-quality feeding hay, placed in areas that are separate to the bedding area. There should also be fresh, clean water constantly available.

>> Remember the three hop rule! Your rabbits should have enough space to lie stretched right out and hop at least three times <<

Get involved with Rabbit Awareness Week 2022

Don’t forget to stay up to date on the RAW social media which will be jam-packed with competitions, videos and is the place to be in the 16th Rabbit Awareness Week to celebrate all things rabbit welfare! 

Follow Rabbit Awareness Week on Facebook 

Join Rabbit Awareness Week on Instagram 

Plus, you can get involved by downloading a Rabbit Awareness Week pack! Download yours today on the Rabbit Awareness Week website where you can print your own bunting, download our colouring sheets and access useful guides to help you keep your bunnies happy and healthy. 

How can I get involved with rabbit welfare all year round?

Have you heard of the Rabbit Awareness Action Group? The team that brought you RAW, have come together for a year-round rabbit welfare campaign. 

The RAAG team are committed to raising awareness for the five welfare needs of rabbits and supporting the Good Practice Code for the Welfare of Rabbits. Collectively we can all make the Good Practice Code law in England, that is, with your help! 

What is the Good Practice Code for the Welfare of Rabbits?

The Animal Welfare Act contains the five welfare needs of our pets. Dogs, cats, and horses also have codes of practice. The codes of practice outline how owners can meet each of the five welfare needs.

At the moment, rabbits do not have a code of practice. But this could change. We can change the law and make sure our pet rabbits are protected. 

You can read the Good Practice Code for the Welfare of Rabbits on the RAAG website.

How can I join the fight for rabbit welfare?

You can help us change the law in England. The RAAG partners have written a letter of support which they are currently campaigning to secure enough signatures to be able to demonstrate to parliament the importance of this issue.

Please sign the letter of support on the Rabbit Awareness Action Group website.

What is Rabbit Awareness Week? 

Here at Pets4Homes, we are delighted to be celebrating Rabbit Awareness Week 2022, also known as ‘RAW’ which is an annual campaign dedicated to the welfare of rabbits. It runs from 27th-1st July and this year the focus is “Room for Rabbits”. 

It aims to educate rabbit owners on all aspects of their care and it’s proudly supported by a number of charity partners. 

• Rabbit Welfare Association and Fund 
• Woodgreen Pets Charity
• RSPCA 
• PDSA 
• Blue Cross 
• Burgess Pet Care

Why is making “Room for Rabbits” important? 

Along with behavior, diet, companionship and health, the environment rabbits live in is crucial to their wellbeing. These are known as the 5 welfare needs. Whether your rabbits live indoors or outdoors it is essential that they have enough space to exhibit their natural behaviors.

What was once thought of as rabbits’ main housing area, put simply, a cramped hutch is not enough. Rabbits need space to roam and a secure exercise area that is permanently attached to their housing which is protected from the elements and predators.

Suzanne Moyes, in-house vet at Burgess Pet Care says just how important housing is: “It remains a common misconception that rabbits are easy, low maintenance pets that are ideal for children – but a lack of understanding of these curious and intelligent creatures means that many are suffering, even though that’s the last thing many owners would want. Following a surge in demand for rabbit ownership in the UK during the past two years, it is more important than ever that collectively we educate owners and continue to help improve rabbits’ welfare. One of the ways to do this is by helping owners understand their housing needs and how this impacts upon their wellbeing.”

How much space do rabbits need?

Our rabbits’ home needs to be tall enough for them to stand up on their back legs without their long ears touching the roof. As rabbits love to run, jump, explore and forage and take consecutive hops, they should also be able to lie fully outstretched in any direction, and enjoy doing all of the things that come naturally to them! 

The housing itself should be big enough to allow your rabbits to make at least three hops. It’s recommended it is a minimum of 3m x 2m x 1m tall. Their hutch should be permanently attached to a larger space within which they can exercise freely. This could be a safe bunny-proofed room indoors, or a large run outdoors.

Your rabbits should also have full access to their exercise area at all times so they can run around as they would in the wild.

In the wild, rabbits are prey animals so it is important that they feel safe. Your rabbits’ housing should have safe hiding places so that they can escape if they feel scared. Make sure you have a secure shelter with plenty of suitable bedding and dust-free hay.

Your rabbits will also need access to an area where they can go to the toilet. This should be separate to the sleeping areas, and you can use newspaper, hay/straw and/or a paper based non-expanding litter.

It’s important to provide enrichment toys for your rabbits. Tunnels, platforms, as well as at least one hiding place per rabbit with two entrances/exits work well. Rabbits love to dig, and there are some great rabbit housing attachments that you can add to your current set up to facilitate this!

Your rabbits should have a constant fresh supply of good-quality feeding hay, placed in areas that are separate to the bedding area. There should also be fresh, clean water constantly available.

>> Remember the three hop rule! Your rabbits should have enough space to lie stretched right out and hop at least three times <<

Get involved with Rabbit Awareness Week 2022

Don’t forget to stay up to date on the RAW social media which will be jam-packed with competitions, videos and is the place to be in the 16th Rabbit Awareness Week to celebrate all things rabbit welfare! 

Follow Rabbit Awareness Week on Facebook 

Join Rabbit Awareness Week on Instagram 

Plus, you can get involved by downloading a Rabbit Awareness Week pack! Download yours today on the Rabbit Awareness Week website where you can print your own bunting, download our colouring sheets and access useful guides to help you keep your bunnies happy and healthy. 

How can I get involved with rabbit welfare all year round?

Have you heard of the Rabbit Awareness Action Group? The team that brought you RAW, have come together for a year-round rabbit welfare campaign. 

The RAAG team are committed to raising awareness for the five welfare needs of rabbits and supporting the Good Practice Code for the Welfare of Rabbits. Collectively we can all make the Good Practice Code law in England, that is, with your help! 

What is the Good Practice Code for the Welfare of Rabbits?

The Animal Welfare Act contains the five welfare needs of our pets. Dogs, cats, and horses also have codes of practice. The codes of practice outline how owners can meet each of the five welfare needs.

At the moment, rabbits do not have a code of practice. But this could change. We can change the law and make sure our pet rabbits are protected. 

You can read the Good Practice Code for the Welfare of Rabbits on the RAAG website.

How can I join the fight for rabbit welfare?

You can help us change the law in England. The RAAG partners have written a letter of support which they are currently campaigning to secure enough signatures to be able to demonstrate to parliament the importance of this issue.

Please sign the letter of support on the Rabbit Awareness Action Group website.