Category Reptiles

There are over 300 species of turtle, with over half threatened by extinction, from habitat destruction, illegal capture mostly for the food trade but also for the pet trade, and competition by invasive species, most commonly the release of pet turtles such as the Red eared and Yellow Bellied Sliders and various Cooter species.

Captive breeding programmes can be the difference between extinction and a future where they might be able to be reintroduced into the wild. You might think that only zoo and aquariums are involved in this sort of project, but often the species are being kept alive by private breeders who work together to ensure a healthy gene pool that can move forward.

Even if you’re looking to breed a more common species you can still help by reducing the numbers that are bred in farms, or taken from the wild.

Choosing a Species

Even as a breeding project you are still keeping the adults for their lives, which may be decades, so make sure that you can give them a healthy and lifelong home. A few points to consider.

Size: Some turtles grow huge, and need even bigger enclosures, can you provide a 500 litre tank per turtle? If not chose a smaller species.

Aquatic, semi aquatic, terrestrial: there are turtles in nearly every habitat in the world. Some are happy in a relatively plain tank, whilst others need a slice of Coasta Rican jungle to keep them content.

Temperate or tropical: If you live in a temperate location such as the UK, you could happily keep some temperate species in an unheated pond or shed, if you’re in sunnier climes go for a tropical species. If you choose a tropical species and you live in a temperate zone remember the cost of heating their enclosures.

Availability: Some turtles are extremely rare and don’t come up for sale that often, however if you have your heart set on a species it’s worth asking around to try and source them. On the opposing side some turtles are so common that they are an invasive species, and the commonly available ones are a mixed bag of genetics from numerous species. It would be unethical to breed these, and unlikely to be worth it as hatchlings on some of these wholesale at around £2 each.

Hatchlings or Adults

Depending on your budget and time scales there are advantages and disadvantages to buying either hatchlings or adults.

Hatchlings are normally much cheaper to buy, and by growing them on to adulthood yourself you can ensure they are brought up to be as healthy as possible. There are three main issues, the first being that if you buy all your breeding group from the same breeder then you will have a limited breeding pool, the second being that it is normally difficult if not impossible to determine the sex of the hatchlings, although the breeding may have been able to incubate the eggs for a specific sex, and may have more than one blood line. The third and most pressing issue is that it can take decades for them to grow to adulthood.

Adults especially those that are healthy and of breeding age are frequently a lot more expensive, but they are past the more fragile hatchling stage, normally can be sexed and may be ready to breed as soon as they are settled. On occasion adults become available via rescue or as unwanted pets, keep an eye on classified sites that specialise in pets as people wanting rid of pets or rescues looking for new homes, although you won’t know as much about their pedigree or past health issues.

Introducing the Adults

So now you have two or more adults, for most species it’s best to have more females than males. Some species can happily cohabit, but most will need to be kept separate, either separating the sexes, or on occasion separating individuals entirely.

Normally it’s best to put the male in the females’ enclosure, make sure she has plenty of options to climb to the surface as males can drown females during mating. There should be a nesting area with plenty of sand for her to lay her eggs in.

Look at where your turtles would live in the wild, and attempt to imitate the conditions they would have prior to the nesting season. What food would the adults be enjoying before they mate and lay eggs, live food in the way of insects or greens and fruit will normally be available to them before they lay eggs? The temperatures may change or the river may flood. If in doubt feed more high quality food and do some big regular water changes, this will help condition the adults before they meet.

Once you’ve put the male in with the female, or females watch for aggression, in some cases females have been known to be the aggressors, especially if they are too young to be breeding. The male may also be aggressive whilst mating and bite the female, especially on the back of the neck.

Eggs

Don’t expect things immediately, but if you wait and you’re lucky you may find some eggs in the nesting area. It’s not unknown for the females to lay a few eggs in the water especially the first time. Unless you see it happening in general these will be useless. If they’re in the nest box they you need to move them carefully to an incubator.

You can buy incubators for reptile eggs, although most breeders report mixed results. You can make your own incubator using a polybox, a fish tank heater and small tubs, there are plenty of descriptions on how to build these on-line on reptile forums.

Carefully dig the eggs out of the nesting box and mark the side that’s up with a pen or pencil. It’s vital not to turn them over as the developing embryo needs to remain in the same orientation.

Depending on the species it will normally take a few months for the hatchlings to break free, once they are out of the egg they will normally have the yolk sac still attached. Be careful not to allow them to break the yolk sac, and give them chance to absorb it all before moving them out of the incubator, or specially set up enclosure.

Their own Enclosure

Newly hatched turtles are tiny, but depending on the species they are often equipped to start swimming immediately, remember in the wild there would be predators looking at them as a snack. Hatchlings normally require slightly warmer temperatures than adults, shallower water and can be more carnivorous.

Choose your species and start talking to other keepers and breeders of this same turtle. They will know the how who and where of the hobby. Talk to them and you should be able to find not only a breeding pair, whether hatchlings or adults, but also the advice and guidance you will need.

There are over 300 species of turtle, with over half threatened by extinction, from habitat destruction, illegal capture mostly for the food trade but also for the pet trade, and competition by invasive species, most commonly the release of pet turtles such as the Red eared and Yellow Bellied Sliders and various Cooter species.

Captive breeding programmes can be the difference between extinction and a future where they might be able to be reintroduced into the wild. You might think that only zoo and aquariums are involved in this sort of project, but often the species are being kept alive by private breeders who work together to ensure a healthy gene pool that can move forward.

Even if you’re looking to breed a more common species you can still help by reducing the numbers that are bred in farms, or taken from the wild.

Choosing a Species

Even as a breeding project you are still keeping the adults for their lives, which may be decades, so make sure that you can give them a healthy and lifelong home. A few points to consider.

Size: Some turtles grow huge, and need even bigger enclosures, can you provide a 500 litre tank per turtle? If not chose a smaller species.

Aquatic, semi aquatic, terrestrial: there are turtles in nearly every habitat in the world. Some are happy in a relatively plain tank, whilst others need a slice of Coasta Rican jungle to keep them content.

Temperate or tropical: If you live in a temperate location such as the UK, you could happily keep some temperate species in an unheated pond or shed, if you’re in sunnier climes go for a tropical species. If you choose a tropical species and you live in a temperate zone remember the cost of heating their enclosures.

Availability: Some turtles are extremely rare and don’t come up for sale that often, however if you have your heart set on a species it’s worth asking around to try and source them. On the opposing side some turtles are so common that they are an invasive species, and the commonly available ones are a mixed bag of genetics from numerous species. It would be unethical to breed these, and unlikely to be worth it as hatchlings on some of these wholesale at around £2 each.

Hatchlings or Adults

Depending on your budget and time scales there are advantages and disadvantages to buying either hatchlings or adults.

Hatchlings are normally much cheaper to buy, and by growing them on to adulthood yourself you can ensure they are brought up to be as healthy as possible. There are three main issues, the first being that if you buy all your breeding group from the same breeder then you will have a limited breeding pool, the second being that it is normally difficult if not impossible to determine the sex of the hatchlings, although the breeding may have been able to incubate the eggs for a specific sex, and may have more than one blood line. The third and most pressing issue is that it can take decades for them to grow to adulthood.

Adults especially those that are healthy and of breeding age are frequently a lot more expensive, but they are past the more fragile hatchling stage, normally can be sexed and may be ready to breed as soon as they are settled. On occasion adults become available via rescue or as unwanted pets, keep an eye on classified sites that specialise in pets as people wanting rid of pets or rescues looking for new homes, although you won’t know as much about their pedigree or past health issues.

Introducing the Adults

So now you have two or more adults, for most species it’s best to have more females than males. Some species can happily cohabit, but most will need to be kept separate, either separating the sexes, or on occasion separating individuals entirely.

Normally it’s best to put the male in the females’ enclosure, make sure she has plenty of options to climb to the surface as males can drown females during mating. There should be a nesting area with plenty of sand for her to lay her eggs in.

Look at where your turtles would live in the wild, and attempt to imitate the conditions they would have prior to the nesting season. What food would the adults be enjoying before they mate and lay eggs, live food in the way of insects or greens and fruit will normally be available to them before they lay eggs? The temperatures may change or the river may flood. If in doubt feed more high quality food and do some big regular water changes, this will help condition the adults before they meet.

Once you’ve put the male in with the female, or females watch for aggression, in some cases females have been known to be the aggressors, especially if they are too young to be breeding. The male may also be aggressive whilst mating and bite the female, especially on the back of the neck.

Eggs

Don’t expect things immediately, but if you wait and you’re lucky you may find some eggs in the nesting area. It’s not unknown for the females to lay a few eggs in the water especially the first time. Unless you see it happening in general these will be useless. If they’re in the nest box they you need to move them carefully to an incubator.

You can buy incubators for reptile eggs, although most breeders report mixed results. You can make your own incubator using a polybox, a fish tank heater and small tubs, there are plenty of descriptions on how to build these on-line on reptile forums.

Carefully dig the eggs out of the nesting box and mark the side that’s up with a pen or pencil. It’s vital not to turn them over as the developing embryo needs to remain in the same orientation.

Depending on the species it will normally take a few months for the hatchlings to break free, once they are out of the egg they will normally have the yolk sac still attached. Be careful not to allow them to break the yolk sac, and give them chance to absorb it all before moving them out of the incubator, or specially set up enclosure.

Their own Enclosure

Newly hatched turtles are tiny, but depending on the species they are often equipped to start swimming immediately, remember in the wild there would be predators looking at them as a snack. Hatchlings normally require slightly warmer temperatures than adults, shallower water and can be more carnivorous.

Choose your species and start talking to other keepers and breeders of this same turtle. They will know the how who and where of the hobby. Talk to them and you should be able to find not only a breeding pair, whether hatchlings or adults, but also the advice and guidance you will need.

The first step to owning a python as a pet, is to ensure that you are buying them for the right reasons. Pythons as part of the snake world can be good pets, but not bought just for aesthetic reasons, and certainly not used as a showstopper for visitors to your home (yes, it does happen). Pythons need care and attention, not just left in their vivarium for all to see.

The second step is to provide above adequate accommodation for them, enough space and a well-prepared habitat for them in as familiar surroundings for their breed as possible. The correct diet is also essential to keep them healthy.

A vast majority of people who want to keep snakes will tend to go for a smaller breed, such as the corn snake, for their first venture into having a snake and to get used to looking after these fascinating creatures. However, in the popularity stakes, there has been an increasing trend in python ownership, with certain breeds being better than others to have as pets.

Some pythons can grow up to 25 feet in length (such as the Reticulated Python or the Burmese Python), so this is obviously not a good choice of pet for anyone living in small accommodation! Pythons of the reticulated breed may also inflict nasty bites, as well as being much harder to satisfy their dietary needs. They are also incredibly ‘heavy’, as their weight can reach up to 100kg or more.

Before buying a python as a pet, please do your homework and research the breed you are purchasing, otherwise it will not be fair on either you or the snake.

The expert’s choice – the Ball Python (once known as the Royal Python)

When talking to experts, the undivided opinion is that the Ball Python makes an excellent pet for both beginners as well as the more experienced owners. When buying a ball python, make sure that you buy from a recognised breeder, who will undoubtedly impart the best possible advice in caring for your snake, their characteristics, health implications, diet etc. Soak up their knowledge – any respectable breeder or owner will always be available to help you through problems once you take your pet home.

Whilst ball pythons are available in pet shops, purchasing from a breeder for the domestic market is a much better idea. They will have had close contact and a knowledge of the ball python, which is invaluable. Reputable breeders will be more than happy to speak to you after your purchase to ensure that your python and you are happy with the arrangements. Pet shops rarely have this in-depth knowledge. Some if the best reasons for choosing a ball python are:

• They are gentle and affectionate pets that are unlikely to bite. In fact, they are more likely to fear you, than you are to fear them. If frightened, they will simply curl up into a ball, which is why they have the breed name. They enjoy being handled and caressed, and in some cases, likely to fall asleep cuddled around you! If raised domestically by the breeder, they will have been used to being handled from the hatchling stage.
• Size – these are one of the more manageable sized pythons, growing to an average of 1.2 metres long. Their weight is also not a problem, with an average of 2kg, although some can weigh less and others more. Females tend to weigh more than males, however.
• Unless your pet ball python contracts a disease, their longevity is assured, with a lifespan of between 20 and 30 years – so no early tears if you keep them in the correct accommodation, suitable food and medical attention.
• Easier on the pocket – whilst this shouldn’t be a consideration, it’s good to know that ball pythons are far more economical than other python breeds.

Pythons to potentially avoid as pets

Some pythons should be avoided for domestic pet-keeping, due either to size, characteristics or expense. It’s all very well admiring some of the big beasts of the jungle, but it’s a whole different ball game when kept in captivity – some are simply not used to it and no amount of care and attention will change that. Never consider pythons that are imported from overseas that have not been bred domestically – they just are not suitable, can carry diseases, have eating problems, parasites and will then potentially be unable to cope with captivity.

You also need to consider your experience in keeping reptiles. If you are a beginner, only consider a snake that is easy to handle and to keep. In this instance, neither Burmese or Reticulated Pythons should be in your mind. Their size, weight and tendency to bite also create problems, as well as the ability to house them correctly. These larger constrictors can move very quickly and can be extremely strong, causing you an unpleasant and potentially dangerous experience. It is not easy to understand what causes adverse reactions, but certainly response to food can be one of them if triggered.

It is also important to note that some type of Pythons (Royal and Indian Pythons) are covered by CITES regulations, therefore if you are looking to buy one of these two types of Python, the seller must be in possession of the relevant Article 10 certificate from Defra and pass on a copy of this certificate to the buyer.

If your heart is set on owning a python (for the right reasons), just take time to carefully consider the undertaking, and use a reputable breeder. You never know the origin of those purchased in pet shops, even if you think they are giving you the right information at the time.

Treat your pet python with respect, as even the most docile one can attack when least expected.

In many respects, the humble tortoise can make a great pet. There is no need to take them out for a lengthy walk in the pouring rain during the winter months. They’re a source of constant entertainment as they lumber around your garden. And they live for decades – sometimes even longer than humans – ensuring that you can avoid the awkward conversations with your children that come with goldfish and hamsters.

What many people do not realise, however, is that tortoises are governed and protected by several laws. This is for the best, as a tortoise can be a deceptively difficult pet to care for. These reptiles grow significantly larger than you may be expecting, and their diet is not as simple as a couple of lettuce leaves from the local supermarket. If you are going to keep a tortoise as a pet, you’ll have to jump through a few hoops first.

The Selling and Trade of Tortoises is Closely Governed by Law

Are you planning to nip to your local pet shop and pick up a tortoise? This may not be possible, as there are many laws and restrictions in place surrounding the species. For more information on why there are so many limitations surrounding tortoises, read this report from the RSPCA.

This was not always the case, as tortoises were hugely popular household pets in the 1960s and 1970s. Alas, mistreatment of the species led to a number of restrictions being placed against their adoption. Now, if a business or individual is looking to sell a tortoise, they will need an appropriate permit. This law stretches from the biggest chain pet shop in the world to a private breeder that lives in your town.

Permits Required to Sell a Tortoise

The Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species, aka CITES, governs the permit requirements for selling a tortoise. Thankfully, tortoises are not yet considered to be an endangered species. However, trade of these animals is controlled to help maintain the population. The idea behind Appendix II is to ensure that anybody bringing an animal home as a pet will be able to keep them safe and secure.

If you are looking into purchasing a tortoise from a private breeder, pet shop or adopting from a shelter, confirm that the seller holds the appropriate permits and paperwork from CITES. If the seller is reluctant or unable to provide evidence of their legal compliance, walk away.

You may also want to consider reporting them to the Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs (DEFRA). The illegal and unethical trading of animals must be stopped, especially when the future of the species is as precarious as the tortoise.

Permits Required to Keep a Tortoise as a Pet

There are two possible permits that will be required to legally keep a tortoise in the UK. Which license you require depends on the length of the tortoise’s plastron, which is the flat underbelly of a tortoise shell.

• If the plastron is smaller than 60mm, the tortoise will not be able to be microchipped. This means that you will need an Article 10 Application Certificate.
• If the plastron is larger than 60mm, the tortoise should be microchipped, so it can be identified. This means that you will need a Specimen-Specific Article 10 Application Certificate.

It is essential that you keep this paperwork, and that the permits are in your name. Failure to keep these records up-to-date could be a criminal offense. It is also illegal to hold a certificate issued in another EU country. If you import a tortoise from another country into the UK, you will need to obtain the appropriate paperwork.

Can I Bypass These Laws and Bring a Wild Tortoise Home?

No – the private adoption and captivity of wild tortoises is strictly forbidden under EU law. You could be charged with the illegal trade of a protected species if you attempt to do this. This is another reason why it is so important that you check the documentation and credentials of a seller before purchasing a tortoise.

Not only will your potentially be breaking the law, but you could struggle with the behaviour of a wild tortoise. These reptiles can be cantankerous and aggressive if their needs are not being met and may not take kindly to being kept in captivity if they are not used to it.

Some Breeds of Tortoise are More Protected Than Others

Like all animals, some breeds of tortoise are closer to extinction than others, and thus more closely protected. Mediterranean (aka Hermann’s), Mediterranean Spur-Thigh and Leopard Tortoises are all very popular as pets, but now listed as endangered species by CITES. The Russian Tortoise (aka Horsefield), however, is equally popular – and not endangered.

Are There Any Professional Bodies that Protect Tortoises?

Yes, The Tortoise Trust. This UK-based charity works tirelessly to protect tortoises, both wild and domesticated. While the Trust are unable to answer personal questions, the website is packed with information. It also contains a peer-to-peer forum, populated by tortoise enthusiasts.

Tortoises are undoubtedly great pets and wonderful animals, but they must be treated with the appropriate respect. Never purchase or adopt a tortoise that comes from a resource you do not trust. Ask to see the appropriate CITES paperwork of the dealer. Research the particular breed of tortoise and ensure that you are meeting their needs and keeping them comfortable. Take each of these steps, and you should enjoy a long and happy relationship with your pet!

Whilst snakes can be seen in groups in the wild, they are better off as solitary inhabitants when enclosed. In the wild as a group, they can be called a variety of collective names such as pit, den, nest, bed or knot. Rattlesnakes’ group name is a rhumba or coil – quite evocative for reptiles that can breed fear in the human race!

Many people believe that snakes can be ‘slimy, wet and uncomfortable’ to be around, but this in fact is not the case. Snakes are warm-blooded, but certainly not wet to the touch. They are dry and scaly in most cases, and can enjoy human contact on a limited basis, with some interacting with company better than others.

Should I be frightened of snakes in the UK?

The only dangerous snakes in the UK are adders (also known as common vipers) but you will never encounter these snakes for sale in licensed pet shops. This is the only snake that you could be frightened of, as it has a venomous bite which does need treatment. However, since 1975, there has been no reported incidents of fatalities due to adder bites.

Snakes are very popular as pets in the UK, which some people do not understand, whilst others find the companionship of a snake so comforting and relaxing that they yearn for more than one. Herein could be the problem when keeping more than one snake in the same encaged environment.

What are the problems of snakes living together?

Most passionate snake owners would throw their hands up in horror at the thought of snakes cohabiting – for them, it is a serious ‘NO’. Other owners have a different school of thought but do put up a good argument as to why.

One of the biggest reasons is that snakes are cannibals – they are more than happy to eat their compatriots with great gusto, whether their own breed or another variety. You could be the lucky one and never witness it, but if snakes are hungry, they really don’t care about eating another snake. The worst snake behaviour with regards to cannibalism is found in King Cobras, who will happily sit down to dinner with another guest snake, only to eat him as the dinner. Smaller snakes will generally not stand a chance if a King Cobra has a voracious appetite.

Try not to be fooled into believing that placing snakes in a cohabited environment is a money-saving exercise, one vivarium as opposed to one for every snake that you own has a high potential to be a false economy. Buying the adequate amount of vivaria is far more economical than risking the life of any of your snakes that are costly to buy in the first place. Your only real problem will be if you have enough room in your house for more than one!

If you do decide to house two or more snakes together, you may think when they are cuddling up and entwined with one another, that they are getting on like best pals. This is not the case – they are merely ‘jockeying’ for top position and the best place in the vivarium!

The best-case scenario if you wish your snakes to cohabit, is to house ‘same sex’ snakes together, and they should also be around the same age and size and in full adulthood. This tends to prevent one of them exerting their dominance, with the larger snake stealing food from the other, who will tend to be pressurised into being the more docile. There is a high chance than one will become ‘bullied’ in this ‘dog eats dog’ or ‘snake eats snake’ environment. If you do allow your snakes to live together, try to create a ‘hide’ for each snake so they can live in relative peace, each having their own space.

The threat of disease

The threat of disease is quite rife, particularly when you add a ‘new’ snake to the vivarium. Special attention needs to be made to any quarantine situation in the first instance – something may not happen for a period of a few months, but then your established snake can become ill after being exposed to the new addition, who has introduced disease to the snake ‘home’. A period of quarantine for the new snake is by far the best route to take, somewhere between 3 and 6 months. Most dedicated owners will tell you to follow this procedure without fail, as it can be costly to lose a snake that you have lovingly reared over a period of time.

Feeding Habits

As previously mentioned, if you have snakes sharing the same vivarium, one will always become dominant. This provides an issue with feeding without a doubt. The other snake(s) will simply not be allowed to feed – Mr Dominant Greedy will want to eat everything that is placed in the home. Snakes become submissive very quickly in this environment, so you will be able to spot by looking into the vivarium, which snake has become the ‘boss’. This will obviously result in a somewhat sad ending – eventually the more submissive snake will suffer health wise and deteriorate due to lack of nourishment.

The only time that snakes should live together is during breeding, any other time provides a risk of losing one of your pets. Whilst relatively easy and economical to keep as pets, if they cohabit, the risk is greater of having to replace them.

The first step to owning a python as a pet, is to ensure that you are buying them for the right reasons. Pythons as part of the snake world can be good pets, but not bought just for aesthetic reasons, and certainly not used as a showstopper for visitors to your home (yes, it does happen). Pythons need care and attention, not just left in their vivarium for all to see.

The second step is to provide above adequate accommodation for them, enough space and a well-prepared habitat for them in as familiar surroundings for their breed as possible. The correct diet is also essential to keep them healthy.

A vast majority of people who want to keep snakes will tend to go for a smaller breed, such as the corn snake, for their first venture into having a snake and to get used to looking after these fascinating creatures. However, in the popularity stakes, there has been an increasing trend in python ownership, with certain breeds being better than others to have as pets.

Some pythons can grow up to 25 feet in length (such as the Reticulated Python or the Burmese Python), so this is obviously not a good choice of pet for anyone living in small accommodation! Pythons of the reticulated breed may also inflict nasty bites, as well as being much harder to satisfy their dietary needs. They are also incredibly ‘heavy’, as their weight can reach up to 100kg or more.

Before buying a python as a pet, please do your homework and research the breed you are purchasing, otherwise it will not be fair on either you or the snake.

The expert’s choice – the Ball Python (once known as the Royal Python)

When talking to experts, the undivided opinion is that the Ball Python makes an excellent pet for both beginners as well as the more experienced owners. When buying a ball python, make sure that you buy from a recognised breeder, who will undoubtedly impart the best possible advice in caring for your snake, their characteristics, health implications, diet etc. Soak up their knowledge – any respectable breeder or owner will always be available to help you through problems once you take your pet home.

Whilst ball pythons are available in pet shops, purchasing from a breeder for the domestic market is a much better idea. They will have had close contact and a knowledge of the ball python, which is invaluable. Reputable breeders will be more than happy to speak to you after your purchase to ensure that your python and you are happy with the arrangements. Pet shops rarely have this in-depth knowledge. Some if the best reasons for choosing a ball python are:

• They are gentle and affectionate pets that are unlikely to bite. In fact, they are more likely to fear you, than you are to fear them. If frightened, they will simply curl up into a ball, which is why they have the breed name. They enjoy being handled and caressed, and in some cases, likely to fall asleep cuddled around you! If raised domestically by the breeder, they will have been used to being handled from the hatchling stage.
• Size – these are one of the more manageable sized pythons, growing to an average of 1.2 metres long. Their weight is also not a problem, with an average of 2kg, although some can weigh less and others more. Females tend to weigh more than males, however.
• Unless your pet ball python contracts a disease, their longevity is assured, with a lifespan of between 20 and 30 years – so no early tears if you keep them in the correct accommodation, suitable food and medical attention.
• Easier on the pocket – whilst this shouldn’t be a consideration, it’s good to know that ball pythons are far more economical than other python breeds.

Pythons to potentially avoid as pets

Some pythons should be avoided for domestic pet-keeping, due either to size, characteristics or expense. It’s all very well admiring some of the big beasts of the jungle, but it’s a whole different ball game when kept in captivity – some are simply not used to it and no amount of care and attention will change that. Never consider pythons that are imported from overseas that have not been bred domestically – they just are not suitable, can carry diseases, have eating problems, parasites and will then potentially be unable to cope with captivity.

You also need to consider your experience in keeping reptiles. If you are a beginner, only consider a snake that is easy to handle and to keep. In this instance, neither Burmese or Reticulated Pythons should be in your mind. Their size, weight and tendency to bite also create problems, as well as the ability to house them correctly. These larger constrictors can move very quickly and can be extremely strong, causing you an unpleasant and potentially dangerous experience. It is not easy to understand what causes adverse reactions, but certainly response to food can be one of them if triggered.

It is also important to note that some type of Pythons (Royal and Indian Pythons) are covered by CITES regulations, therefore if you are looking to buy one of these two types of Python, the seller must be in possession of the relevant Article 10 certificate from Defra and pass on a copy of this certificate to the buyer.

If your heart is set on owning a python (for the right reasons), just take time to carefully consider the undertaking, and use a reputable breeder. You never know the origin of those purchased in pet shops, even if you think they are giving you the right information at the time.

Treat your pet python with respect, as even the most docile one can attack when least expected.

In many respects, the humble tortoise can make a great pet. There is no need to take them out for a lengthy walk in the pouring rain during the winter months. They’re a source of constant entertainment as they lumber around your garden. And they live for decades – sometimes even longer than humans – ensuring that you can avoid the awkward conversations with your children that come with goldfish and hamsters.

What many people do not realise, however, is that tortoises are governed and protected by several laws. This is for the best, as a tortoise can be a deceptively difficult pet to care for. These reptiles grow significantly larger than you may be expecting, and their diet is not as simple as a couple of lettuce leaves from the local supermarket. If you are going to keep a tortoise as a pet, you’ll have to jump through a few hoops first.

The Selling and Trade of Tortoises is Closely Governed by Law

Are you planning to nip to your local pet shop and pick up a tortoise? This may not be possible, as there are many laws and restrictions in place surrounding the species. For more information on why there are so many limitations surrounding tortoises, read this report from the RSPCA.

This was not always the case, as tortoises were hugely popular household pets in the 1960s and 1970s. Alas, mistreatment of the species led to a number of restrictions being placed against their adoption. Now, if a business or individual is looking to sell a tortoise, they will need an appropriate permit. This law stretches from the biggest chain pet shop in the world to a private breeder that lives in your town.

Permits Required to Sell a Tortoise

The Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species, aka CITES, governs the permit requirements for selling a tortoise. Thankfully, tortoises are not yet considered to be an endangered species. However, trade of these animals is controlled to help maintain the population. The idea behind Appendix II is to ensure that anybody bringing an animal home as a pet will be able to keep them safe and secure.

If you are looking into purchasing a tortoise from a private breeder, pet shop or adopting from a shelter, confirm that the seller holds the appropriate permits and paperwork from CITES. If the seller is reluctant or unable to provide evidence of their legal compliance, walk away.

You may also want to consider reporting them to the Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs (DEFRA). The illegal and unethical trading of animals must be stopped, especially when the future of the species is as precarious as the tortoise.

Permits Required to Keep a Tortoise as a Pet

There are two possible permits that will be required to legally keep a tortoise in the UK. Which license you require depends on the length of the tortoise’s plastron, which is the flat underbelly of a tortoise shell.

• If the plastron is smaller than 60mm, the tortoise will not be able to be microchipped. This means that you will need an Article 10 Application Certificate.
• If the plastron is larger than 60mm, the tortoise should be microchipped, so it can be identified. This means that you will need a Specimen-Specific Article 10 Application Certificate.

It is essential that you keep this paperwork, and that the permits are in your name. Failure to keep these records up-to-date could be a criminal offense. It is also illegal to hold a certificate issued in another EU country. If you import a tortoise from another country into the UK, you will need to obtain the appropriate paperwork.

Can I Bypass These Laws and Bring a Wild Tortoise Home?

No – the private adoption and captivity of wild tortoises is strictly forbidden under EU law. You could be charged with the illegal trade of a protected species if you attempt to do this. This is another reason why it is so important that you check the documentation and credentials of a seller before purchasing a tortoise.

Not only will your potentially be breaking the law, but you could struggle with the behaviour of a wild tortoise. These reptiles can be cantankerous and aggressive if their needs are not being met and may not take kindly to being kept in captivity if they are not used to it.

Some Breeds of Tortoise are More Protected Than Others

Like all animals, some breeds of tortoise are closer to extinction than others, and thus more closely protected. Mediterranean (aka Hermann’s), Mediterranean Spur-Thigh and Leopard Tortoises are all very popular as pets, but now listed as endangered species by CITES. The Russian Tortoise (aka Horsefield), however, is equally popular – and not endangered.

Are There Any Professional Bodies that Protect Tortoises?

Yes, The Tortoise Trust. This UK-based charity works tirelessly to protect tortoises, both wild and domesticated. While the Trust are unable to answer personal questions, the website is packed with information. It also contains a peer-to-peer forum, populated by tortoise enthusiasts.

Tortoises are undoubtedly great pets and wonderful animals, but they must be treated with the appropriate respect. Never purchase or adopt a tortoise that comes from a resource you do not trust. Ask to see the appropriate CITES paperwork of the dealer. Research the particular breed of tortoise and ensure that you are meeting their needs and keeping them comfortable. Take each of these steps, and you should enjoy a long and happy relationship with your pet!

Whilst snakes can be seen in groups in the wild, they are better off as solitary inhabitants when enclosed. In the wild as a group, they can be called a variety of collective names such as pit, den, nest, bed or knot. Rattlesnakes’ group name is a rhumba or coil – quite evocative for reptiles that can breed fear in the human race!

Many people believe that snakes can be ‘slimy, wet and uncomfortable’ to be around, but this in fact is not the case. Snakes are warm-blooded, but certainly not wet to the touch. They are dry and scaly in most cases, and can enjoy human contact on a limited basis, with some interacting with company better than others.

Should I be frightened of snakes in the UK?

The only dangerous snakes in the UK are adders (also known as common vipers) but you will never encounter these snakes for sale in licensed pet shops. This is the only snake that you could be frightened of, as it has a venomous bite which does need treatment. However, since 1975, there has been no reported incidents of fatalities due to adder bites.

Snakes are very popular as pets in the UK, which some people do not understand, whilst others find the companionship of a snake so comforting and relaxing that they yearn for more than one. Herein could be the problem when keeping more than one snake in the same encaged environment.

What are the problems of snakes living together?

Most passionate snake owners would throw their hands up in horror at the thought of snakes cohabiting – for them, it is a serious ‘NO’. Other owners have a different school of thought but do put up a good argument as to why.

One of the biggest reasons is that snakes are cannibals – they are more than happy to eat their compatriots with great gusto, whether their own breed or another variety. You could be the lucky one and never witness it, but if snakes are hungry, they really don’t care about eating another snake. The worst snake behaviour with regards to cannibalism is found in King Cobras, who will happily sit down to dinner with another guest snake, only to eat him as the dinner. Smaller snakes will generally not stand a chance if a King Cobra has a voracious appetite.

Try not to be fooled into believing that placing snakes in a cohabited environment is a money-saving exercise, one vivarium as opposed to one for every snake that you own has a high potential to be a false economy. Buying the adequate amount of vivaria is far more economical than risking the life of any of your snakes that are costly to buy in the first place. Your only real problem will be if you have enough room in your house for more than one!

If you do decide to house two or more snakes together, you may think when they are cuddling up and entwined with one another, that they are getting on like best pals. This is not the case – they are merely ‘jockeying’ for top position and the best place in the vivarium!

The best-case scenario if you wish your snakes to cohabit, is to house ‘same sex’ snakes together, and they should also be around the same age and size and in full adulthood. This tends to prevent one of them exerting their dominance, with the larger snake stealing food from the other, who will tend to be pressurised into being the more docile. There is a high chance than one will become ‘bullied’ in this ‘dog eats dog’ or ‘snake eats snake’ environment. If you do allow your snakes to live together, try to create a ‘hide’ for each snake so they can live in relative peace, each having their own space.

The threat of disease

The threat of disease is quite rife, particularly when you add a ‘new’ snake to the vivarium. Special attention needs to be made to any quarantine situation in the first instance – something may not happen for a period of a few months, but then your established snake can become ill after being exposed to the new addition, who has introduced disease to the snake ‘home’. A period of quarantine for the new snake is by far the best route to take, somewhere between 3 and 6 months. Most dedicated owners will tell you to follow this procedure without fail, as it can be costly to lose a snake that you have lovingly reared over a period of time.

Feeding Habits

As previously mentioned, if you have snakes sharing the same vivarium, one will always become dominant. This provides an issue with feeding without a doubt. The other snake(s) will simply not be allowed to feed – Mr Dominant Greedy will want to eat everything that is placed in the home. Snakes become submissive very quickly in this environment, so you will be able to spot by looking into the vivarium, which snake has become the ‘boss’. This will obviously result in a somewhat sad ending – eventually the more submissive snake will suffer health wise and deteriorate due to lack of nourishment.

The only time that snakes should live together is during breeding, any other time provides a risk of losing one of your pets. Whilst relatively easy and economical to keep as pets, if they cohabit, the risk is greater of having to replace them.

If the average person was asked to describe a snake, they would probably mention the forked tongue and hissing sound they make fairly soon in their description, and the hissing sound is of course a very familiar one to anyone who keeps or handles pet snake, such as a corn snake or a king snake.

The sound of the hiss itself is fairly menacing and threatening-so much so that many other species of animals have evolved to produce a hissing sound of their own that emulates that of the snake to deter predators or see off an attacker if threatened-including of course cats!

But why do snakes hiss, how do they make the hissing sound and what does it mean, or why do they do it? These are all questions that new snake owners often find themselves asking, and so in this article we will attempt to answer them, and explain a little more about why snakes hiss and what it means. Read on to learn more.

How do snakes make the hissing sound?

Snakes are of course hugely different to humans and other mammals in terms of their anatomy and physiology, which makes everything from the way that they eat to the way they move to the sounds that they make and how they make them very different to ours.

An important part of the difference between snakes and mammals is how snakes breathe and swallow, and this depends on an organ called the glottis, which is located just behind the tongue in the snake’s throat. Snakes breathe through the glottis, which can open and shut, opening into the windpipe when the snake inhales a breath and closing afterwards. The glottis opens again when the snake breathes out normally and does not make a sound, but if the snake forces out air with a hard exhalation, a piece of cartilage in the glottis vibrates, causing the hissing sound, which is as such produced by the glottis and not the tongue, as some people think!

Do all snakes hiss?

All species and types of snakes have the same basic anatomy in terms of the construction of their mouth, throat and glottis, and so, all snakes are physically capable of hissing. However, there are a huge number of different species of snakes in the world and not all of them actually choose to make a hissing sound-although all of the common pet snake species that we have in the UK can and sometimes do hiss.

What does it mean when a snake hisses?

The hissing sound is one that a snake makes deliberately, and does not simply happen by accident-which means that when a snake does hiss, there is a reason for it, and the reason is usually in warning or to deter a threat.

However, not all snakes will do this, and whether or not a snake will hiss regularly or in any given situation comes down to a variety of factors. Snakes that grow very large don’t usually hiss a lot if at all, because their huge size poses sufficient deterrent to most predators, negating the need to warn them off.

Very poisonous snakes too tend to not hiss a lot, because the other animals and predators that live within their ecosystem know that they are dangerous, and best left well alone.

All snakes tend to avoid confrontation where possible rather than fighting or getting into a standoff, and so a snake is most likely to hiss if cornered or caught by surprise.

As part of the deterrent tools snakes have for keeping themselves safe, snakes of different species also use a range of other ways to warn off threats, such as flaring the hood in cobras, or rattling the tail for rattlesnakes, as well as lunging, biting, holding the head and body upright, and releasing musk-or several of these things at once, possibly alongside of hissing!

Do snakes hiss to communicate and speak to other snakes?

Snakes are not social animals, and they don’t use vocal cues to communicate with each other. Whilst snakes do of course come together to breed and sometimes, to hibernate and keep warm, they tend to be fairly solitary and not interested in talking to other snakes, and so if a snake hisses at another snake, it is almost certainly a warning or a threat.

Why do pet snakes hiss?

If you are attempting to pick up your pet snake or are doing something in their tank and they are hissing, they are not very happy about things and want to be left alone. If you do intend to handle your snake, it is important to acclimatise them to this so that they get used to it and do not find it overly stressful, but snakes are not like mammal pets such as cats and dogs, and do not need physical contact and affection.

If your snake is hissing at you, you should take this as a warning that your snake is annoyed or frightened, and stop what you are doing-before your snake gets upset or tries to bite you!

If the average person was asked to describe a snake, they would probably mention the forked tongue and hissing sound they make fairly soon in their description, and the hissing sound is of course a very familiar one to anyone who keeps or handles pet snake, such as a corn snake or a king snake.

The sound of the hiss itself is fairly menacing and threatening-so much so that many other species of animals have evolved to produce a hissing sound of their own that emulates that of the snake to deter predators or see off an attacker if threatened-including of course cats!

But why do snakes hiss, how do they make the hissing sound and what does it mean, or why do they do it? These are all questions that new snake owners often find themselves asking, and so in this article we will attempt to answer them, and explain a little more about why snakes hiss and what it means. Read on to learn more.

How do snakes make the hissing sound?

Snakes are of course hugely different to humans and other mammals in terms of their anatomy and physiology, which makes everything from the way that they eat to the way they move to the sounds that they make and how they make them very different to ours.

An important part of the difference between snakes and mammals is how snakes breathe and swallow, and this depends on an organ called the glottis, which is located just behind the tongue in the snake’s throat. Snakes breathe through the glottis, which can open and shut, opening into the windpipe when the snake inhales a breath and closing afterwards. The glottis opens again when the snake breathes out normally and does not make a sound, but if the snake forces out air with a hard exhalation, a piece of cartilage in the glottis vibrates, causing the hissing sound, which is as such produced by the glottis and not the tongue, as some people think!

Do all snakes hiss?

All species and types of snakes have the same basic anatomy in terms of the construction of their mouth, throat and glottis, and so, all snakes are physically capable of hissing. However, there are a huge number of different species of snakes in the world and not all of them actually choose to make a hissing sound-although all of the common pet snake species that we have in the UK can and sometimes do hiss.

What does it mean when a snake hisses?

The hissing sound is one that a snake makes deliberately, and does not simply happen by accident-which means that when a snake does hiss, there is a reason for it, and the reason is usually in warning or to deter a threat.

However, not all snakes will do this, and whether or not a snake will hiss regularly or in any given situation comes down to a variety of factors. Snakes that grow very large don’t usually hiss a lot if at all, because their huge size poses sufficient deterrent to most predators, negating the need to warn them off.

Very poisonous snakes too tend to not hiss a lot, because the other animals and predators that live within their ecosystem know that they are dangerous, and best left well alone.

All snakes tend to avoid confrontation where possible rather than fighting or getting into a standoff, and so a snake is most likely to hiss if cornered or caught by surprise.

As part of the deterrent tools snakes have for keeping themselves safe, snakes of different species also use a range of other ways to warn off threats, such as flaring the hood in cobras, or rattling the tail for rattlesnakes, as well as lunging, biting, holding the head and body upright, and releasing musk-or several of these things at once, possibly alongside of hissing!

Do snakes hiss to communicate and speak to other snakes?

Snakes are not social animals, and they don’t use vocal cues to communicate with each other. Whilst snakes do of course come together to breed and sometimes, to hibernate and keep warm, they tend to be fairly solitary and not interested in talking to other snakes, and so if a snake hisses at another snake, it is almost certainly a warning or a threat.

Why do pet snakes hiss?

If you are attempting to pick up your pet snake or are doing something in their tank and they are hissing, they are not very happy about things and want to be left alone. If you do intend to handle your snake, it is important to acclimatise them to this so that they get used to it and do not find it overly stressful, but snakes are not like mammal pets such as cats and dogs, and do not need physical contact and affection.

If your snake is hissing at you, you should take this as a warning that your snake is annoyed or frightened, and stop what you are doing-before your snake gets upset or tries to bite you!